Prepare materials and tools
You will need:
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- toilet with tank and fittings;
- fastening kit and flexible hose;
- eccentric cuff or corrugation;
- transition collar 123 × 110 mm (for connection to a cast iron socket);
- gas burner or hair dryer (for disconnecting a cast iron pipe);
- tile adhesive or repair compound (for filling a hole in the floor);
- hammer drill or impact drill;
- concrete drill with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm;
- tile drill 8 or 10 mm;
- a set of wrenches and a hacksaw;
- hammer and dowels;
- tape measure and marker;
- screwdrivers and knife;
- silicone sealant and rags;
- bucket and sponge;
- universal lubricant WD‑40 or equivalent (if necessary).
Remove the old toilet
If you are installing a new toilet and not replacing it, move on to the next point.
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Turn off the tap at the entrance to the tank or (if there is none) the tap at the entrance to the apartment. Remove the flexible line and then press the drain button. Fill a bucket of water and quickly pour it into the toilet to flush any remaining waste inside the siphon down the drain. Use a sponge to remove water from the bowl.
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Unscrew the toilet mounting screws that secure it to the floor. Using a sharp knife, trim the caulk around the base of the bowl. Remove the corrugation from the siphon outlet and move the toilet. Cover the sewer pipe with a bag or rag so that the smell does not penetrate the room.
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If the plumbing is very old, the dismantling process will be more difficult. First, unscrew the mounting bolts, spraying them with WD‑40 if necessary. Then, using a screwdriver, crumble the cement caulking around the perimeter of the cast-iron sewer pipe, having previously heated it with a torch or a hair dryer, and remove the toilet.
Sometimes it's easier to split ancient plumbing fixtures with a hammer or hammer drill, and then remove the fragments from the sewer pipe. If you decide to take drastic measures, do not forget to wear safety glasses.
Use a hammer to knock out the wooden stand and remove all debris. Using repair compound or tile adhesive, fill the resulting depression and wait 6-12 hours until it hardens completely.
Which floor-standing toilet is better to choose?
Plumbing supply stores offer a wide selection of different models from many manufacturers.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
Before purchasing, it is necessary to conduct a visual analysis of the product for the presence of chips and cracks, and pay attention to the coating of the product. It should be uniform.
Next, you should check the completeness. The packaging must contain documentation - installation instructions and a product passport, which spell out what is included in the toilet kit. Then check the presence of all elements, including fastening components.
When choosing a toilet, it is also recommended to pay attention to the method of water supply. If connected from below, the liquid intake will be more quiet. The aesthetic appearance of the room as a whole will not be spoiled by pipes protruding from the side (in the case of a lateral supply).
This plumbing equipment differs in the type of connection to the sewer, so before going to the store you should pay attention to where the sewer pipe comes out (from the wall or from the floor), as well as the angle of the pipe. This information will help you avoid additional costs for purchasing adapters, and the connection will look more aesthetically pleasing.
Assemble the tank fittings
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Unpack the toilet and carefully read the instructions. Lay out all the parts on cardboard from the box to avoid scratching the tiles on the floor. Place conical gaskets onto the threads of the drain and fill valves with the narrow part towards the holes.
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Place the valves in place and tighten the plastic nuts by hand, and then another quarter turn using a wrench. Make sure that the drain valve does not touch the walls of the tank (otherwise the float will become stuck and will not shut off the water when filling). To do this, check its movement by hand or turn the tank over.
Photo of installing a toilet with your own hands
Read here - Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands: stages of work, step-by-step description and tips on how to lay tiles correctly (90 photos and videos)
Place the tank on the bowl
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Place the largest rubber gasket on the toilet shelf and place the tank on top, aligning the mounting holes. Place cone washers on the bolts with the narrow part facing down and insert the fasteners into the holes.
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Install plastic and metal washers from below, and then tighten the nuts evenly by hand so that the tank fits without distortion. Place the lid on the tank, insert and tighten the drain button by hand.
Try the toilet in place
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Next, decide on the location of the new toilet. Move the bowl into place and try to sit down. To save space, you can press as close as possible to the wall, but not as closely as possible - it is advisable to leave a gap of 2-3 cm between it and the tank.
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Align the drain with the sewer outlet. If you are using a straight pipe for the connection, measure with a tape measure and cut off the required piece. Use a knife to remove any burrs from the edge. If you use a corrugation or an eccentric cuff, try on how they become.
Release form
According to the form of release of the toilet, the equipment can be divided into:
- oblique. The most popular option. The outlet pipe exits at an angle from the back of the toilet. It is recommended to use just such a toilet;
- vertical. They are not used in modern renovations. It is assumed that the pipe will be brought out into the ceiling, from where it is connected to the riser. Not the most reliable option in terms of protection against leaks and difficult to install;
- horizontal. The outlet exits the toilet at a right angle horizontally.
In the photo of installing a toilet with your own hands, you can familiarize yourself with the various options for plumbing equipment and the features of their installation.
Read here Do-it-yourself slopes - the main types of slopes and step-by-step instructions for installing them (115 photos)
Connect to the sewer
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Remove the bag or rag from the sewer outlet. Lubricate the O-ring in the socket with soap or detergent and insert the pipe into it, and then the toilet flush into it. Install the corrugation or eccentric collar in the same way.
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On an old cast-iron sewer, first insert a special adapter collar with a diameter of 123 × 110 mm into the socket that has been cleaned and lubricated with sealant. For reliability, you can additionally coat the joint of the plastic pipe with the cuff with silicone.
Attach the toilet to the floor
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Move the bowl to the intended place and mark the mounting holes on the floor with a marker. If the toilet has hidden brackets, trace the bottom around the perimeter, and then measure the required distance from the edges according to the drawing in the instructions.
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Drill holes in the floor. First the tiles using a special drill for ceramics, and then the concrete using a suitable drill. Remove dust and insert dowels into the holes.
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Apply the silicone in a snake around the perimeter of the toilet, not reaching 2-3 cm from the edge, and wait about 20 minutes until it hardens a little.
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Then install the plumbing fixtures in place and, putting plastic washers on the fastening bolts, tighten them with a wrench. Do not overdo it so that the ceramic does not burst; it is better to tighten the fasteners later if necessary. Place decorative caps on the bolt heads.
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Fill the joint between the bowl and the tile using sealant. Remove excess with your finger or tissue and let dry. It is better to use transparent silicone, since the white one turns yellow and gets dirty over time.
If there are heated floor pipes under the tiles or you cannot drill through the tiles for other reasons, you can simply glue the toilet bowl to silicone.
To do this, the surface must be perfectly flat, clean and dry, and before using new plumbing, you must wait at least a day until the sealant has completely hardened.
Types of floor-standing toilets
There are two types of toilets: wall-hung and floor-mounted. The most common model is the floor-mounted toilet, which has a number of advantages:
- a wide range is presented by manufacturers
- a more familiar model for most people
- availability of budget options
- installation does not require much preparatory work
When choosing an irreplaceable item for the bathroom, you should pay attention to the type of sanitary bowl.
Based on their structure, they can be divided into three types:
- Disc-shaped
The main advantage is the design feature of this type of bowl. One of the walls has a protruding part. This structure eliminates splashes during rinsing, but an odor may appear during use.
- Kozyrkovaya
In this model, the structure of the rear wall is made with a slope. This type does not splash during flushing, and also prevents the appearance of an unpleasant odor during operation. This type of bowl requires careful care, using special brushes.
- Funnel-shaped
There is some small splashes when rinsing, but the shape of this bowl is the most hygienic and does not require special care. Imported manufacturers most often produce models of this type.
The plumbing equipment store offers toilets with various flush barrels, which differ in design and installation method.
Types of drain barrels include:
- compact
- is the most common model. This type is mounted on the ledge at the back of the toilet. There is a rubber gasket between the elements. Installation is carried out using the bolts included in the kit. Some companies also produce models with a fused barrel and toilet design.
- separate
This model is perfect for a small bathroom. Allows you to save space due to the absence of a rear projection for the drain barrel. In this case, the barrel is mounted on the wall and connected to the toilet using pipes and hoses. This type provides better flushing, since the water pressure has greater pressure.
- hidden installation system
The drain barrel is located inside the false wall. Flushing is performed using a button facing outwards. If dismantling is necessary, the internal components of the tank can be replaced along with the button.
Methods for flushing floor-mounted toilets may also vary. Among the presented assortment there are lever and push-button ones. The second option includes more modern models. There are types with two buttons. When you press one, half of the water contained in the tank is flushed, two buttons are flushed - respectively, the entire volume of liquid. This option allows you to save water consumption and reduce payments for the supplied resource.
Install the toilet seat
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Assemble the lid fittings. If there are “left” and “right” marks on the mounts, do not confuse them. Insert the rubber bushings into the holes, install the eccentrics on top and adjust the distance between them to the width of the toilet seat holes.
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Tighten the mounting bolts with plastic washers from below. Place the decorative pads on the rubber part of the eccentrics and install the cover on them until it clicks.
