Dutch oven: [Cozy Realizations in the House] #2019

Assembling a Dutch oven with your own hands

There are several varieties:

• Dutch heating stove
• Dutch oven with fireplace
• Dutch oven with oven
• Dutch oven Lukashevich
• Dutch oven with stove

When planning a house, of course, it is better to immediately determine a place for the stove and pre-prepare the foundation - reinforce the floor and fill the space between the stove and the foundation of the house with sand.

But this will only be needed for a large stove, and a Dutch stove, especially one assembled with your own hands, will do without a foundation.

The Dutch oven is significantly different from its sisters:

• a voluminous and roomy firebox without a vent (in the classic version, modern Dutch women equip almost all stove makers with a vent);
• tile cladding (again, in the classics);
• rectangular shape;
• channels for removing hot air (they are called lifting and lowering - gases move through them in a clear sequence, staying as long as possible and giving off all the heat to the brick walls);
• slow burning of firewood (especially in the classic version without a blower), which, on the one hand, gives a lower combustion temperature, but prolonged heat release (for example, at night) on the other.

Construction Materials

To start building a Dutch oven, we need to collect materials according to the following list:

1. Red bricks 250*120*65 mm;
2. Fireclay refractory bricks (optional);
3. Ordinary building clay;
4. River sand;
5. Water;
6. Door for the firebox (about 250*210 mm) and the blower (about 270*140 mm);
7. Grate (30*20 cm);
8. Steel wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm;
9. Asbestos cord;
10. Asbestos cardboard and cast iron hob (optional);
11. Gate valves (from 130*130 mm to 130*250 mm);
12. Cleaning doors (optional);
13. Steel strip, 5 cm wide, 5 mm thick (optional).

When considering the project, adjust the dimensions of the materials to suit your future stove, the main thing is that everything is built into the masonry tightly, without cracks or play.

When you have everything ready to start laying out, prepare a clay solution (ordinary cement for ovens is by no means suitable). After soaking it in water, add sand in the same amount as the clay, pour water into 1/4 of the volume of clay and mix until sour cream is thick.

Also, do not forget to dip each brick in water before use so that it does not absorb moisture from the mortar.

Assembly instructions

• After a trial laying out and preparing the mortar, follow the plan on which each row of bricks is painted (order), check the result every three rows and check the order.
• The door fastenings should be made of steel wire.
• As you go, scrape off any excess solution and remove it carefully.
• When the masonry (and, accordingly, the stove itself) is ready, let it dry for about two weeks. You can speed up this process by periodically firing the oven for half an hour.

Structural features of the Dutch oven

This stove operates on the principle of long burning. This effect is achieved by design features. After fuel combustion, hot air currents are formed. They pass through a specially equipped channel, where they transfer thermal energy to the brick walls. After cooling, the combustion products fall back into the combustion chamber. The exhaust gases are then reheated, raised and removed through the chimney.

When arranging a Dutch oven, it is necessary to take into account the following design features of this unit:

• given the significant weight of the stove, for its effective operation it is necessary to equip the foundation;
• the base for the Dutch woman should have a thickness of 10-15 cm. It is formed from concrete and a reinforcement frame;
• instead of monolithic reinforced concrete, a solid slab can be used as a foundation for the stove;
• the dimensions of the foundation should exceed the dimensions of the Dutch by 5-10 cm in all directions;
• for laying a heating stove, you can use hollow bricks, which may even have minor cracks;
• high-quality refractory bricks should be used to construct the firebox;
• to connect masonry elements, a sand-clay solution (proportion 2:1) is used, which has a creamy consistency;
• to install a Dutch oven, it is forbidden to use cement-based mortar, which cracks under significant thermal load;
• the classic Dutch model is not equipped with a grate;
• the movement of gases in the system is carried out through six channels - three upper and three lower;
• the thickness of the stove walls is usually 0.5 bricks, which allows the heating device to heat up quite quickly;
• to increase the efficiency of the device, a metal casing or heat exchanger is included in its design;
• the shape of the stove can be rectangular or round, but the firebox itself is always rectangular;
• due to the absence of a blower, the combustion process is not as intense, which is what is required for the Dutch oven to work effectively.

Types of ovens

Since the development of the Dutch oven, a large number of modifications have appeared. It is constantly being improved and certain changes are made. Therefore, almost all heating structures began to be called Dutch. It should be noted that the name of this stove was invented in Russia.

Russian Dutch girls

Many craftsmen began to change the appearance of an ordinary Russian stove and began to call them Dutch designs, but from the technical side they have nothing in common. Such stoves began to be built after Peter I indicated that all heating structures should be built on the basis of Dutch devices. Domestic masters thought of combining both options and developing a completely new device. The new variant then made its way back to Europe and became widely used among the population.

Swedish ovens

Unlike the Dutch version, Swedes are equipped with a cooking chamber and stove. Therefore, they can be used not only for heating the room, but also for cooking. If necessary, an oven, heat generator or water heating box can be installed in such a structure. The order will help you accurately lay out all the rows of the Swede.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=jTKaiStDdxM

Round Dutch woman

This option was also developed in Russia, although it is of German origin. The design of the device is quite simple: smoke circulation and three channels. The stove operates by smoldering wood fuel. It is built on an iron casing, which reduces its cost. At the same time, the heating structure has good heat transfer. However, a large amount of heat escapes through the pipe. Despite its low cost, the device is a fire hazard, soot appears on the casing, and requires regular maintenance, which is not so easy.

Small dacha

This design option is a small stove, which is designed for heating a small area, up to 20 m2. Coal or wood is used as fuel. The prepared diagram and order will make it possible to produce a structure of appropriate dimensions. Small dimensions are achieved by rolling the smoke circulation pipes into a small ring. The dimensions of the structure are 520X520 millimeters.

The lineup

The described heating stove may have a different design, which determines the scope of its application and operating features. On this basis, several of the most common models are identified.

Classic stove option

The classic version of the Dutch woman can have a rectangular or round shape. Such units usually look simple, but quite elegant. Brick is used to finish the walls. Inside, the stove consists of a combustion chamber and six channels. That is why heating of brick walls occurs gradually, which eliminates the appearance of cracks.

When constructing classic devices, it is necessary to pay special attention to the height of the firebox. It should be placed at a height of 25 cm from the floor. This will ensure uniform heating of the room.

Models with hob

A traditional Dutch oven can be equipped with tiles. This allows you to expand the scope of its application. Such a heating device can be used for cooking. In this case, a cast-iron slab is placed above the combustion chamber, which is framed with brickwork.

Due to the uniform heating of the unit body and its gradual cooling, the design of the stove may include an oven. It can be used for both heating and cooking.

Option with fireplace

The Dutch oven with fireplace is slightly different from the traditional model. It should have a wide base. The construction of the chimney pipe and the ash collection pit begins from the second row. In the same place, a hole is formed to clean the system from fuel combustion products.

In order for such a fireplace to function effectively over a long period, experts recommend using a basalt cardboard gasket for its construction. It will prevent the formation of cracks and isolate gas flows.

Column furnaces

Models made in the form of a column can operate on almost any fuel (wood, coal, gas). They are highly efficient and very popular. To increase productivity, engineers came up with the idea of ​​constructing a metal casing around a brick wall. During the combustion process, it absorbs a large amount of thermal energy, after which it intensively releases it into the environment.

Color combinations

Stylists advise taking into account the following nuances:

• direction in the interior;
• combination of shades;
• illumination

It is much easier to choose a palette if the style for the kitchen and living room has already been selected. For example, neoclassicism and Provence have their own combinations. In a classic interior, designers combine pastel colors, pale colors, which are slightly diluted with dark shades. In French country houses you can often see soft blue, pink, and pistachio colors. Art Deco designers make up objects and finishing materials in black and white, sometimes beige and brown or silver and black. The main thing is to choose a shade for the walls. White will become universal, it will expand the space, and later you can paint them with any paint. However, in the cooking area, white ceases to look fresh. Beige or gray shades would be more practical. This background will highlight the other colors. In a monochrome interior, designers recommend gluing wallpaper in an unusual color or with a photo print.

Design features

The Dutch woman does not have a grate. Unlike many other stove models, it has several smoke channels. There is no blower. This feature prevents the fuel from burning intensely. Therefore, firewood burns slowly, evenly and releases heat energy to the room for a long time. That is, the design of the stove is suitable in its operational characteristics for long-burning stoves. Oxygen for combustion enters through the firebox door.

The shape of the Dutchman is elongated upward. The firebox has a rectangular shape. In the classic version, the function of the Dutch oven is heating. The hob, oven and benches were added by craftsmen later. Thus, over time, the standard look of the Dutch woman has changed.

The stove has very thin walls—half a brick. This feature allows the structure to quickly warm up. Combustion products, passing through a long chimney, give off heat to the walls and go out into the street. The design of the furnace can be changed, the main thing is to maintain the basic proportions and maintain the principle of operation.

The principle of operation of the Dutch oven is not to make the logs burn with a strong flame, they should smolder intensely. If the fire is strong, the flue gases will escape through the chimney ducts into the street very quickly and will not have time to transfer thermal energy to the walls. Therefore, small logs, shavings, sawdust and other types of fuel that burn through quickly should not be loaded into the combustion chamber. If the stove is fired correctly, it will warm up quickly and will transfer heat to the room for a long time. The temperature of the outer surface of the wall is usually about 60 degrees.

How to drown a Dutch oven correctly? First, make sure that there is no ash in the fuel chamber and ash pan. Fuel should be placed on the grate. The fuel must be dry. Before setting fire to the logs, cover the ash pit. The logs are laid out horizontally in even rows. Then the firebox door needs to be closed and the ash pan opened.

What is a Dutch oven?

The main purpose of this heat source is still considered to be heating small buildings, such as houses in the Netherlands. In this case, the number of storeys does not matter; the building can freely cover 2 floors. There are known examples of Dutch women built on 3 and even 4 floors. Initially, it was a small furnace without grates and a blower; combustion air entered through the slightly open firebox door. Over time, the residents of the Netherlands themselves improved the design by adding an ash chamber with a grate and a door.

The classic design of a Dutch oven provides for very long passages of flue gases inside the building, due to which it stretches in height, and the dimensions in plan are small. The smallest Dutch oven measures 520 x 520 mm and is suitable for heating a room up to 20 m2. The combustion products, passing through long channels, almost completely give up their heat to the walls and exit through the side opening. It should be noted that the design of the stove is not constant, like that of a Russian stove; it can be changed, following the basic proportions and maintaining the principle of operation.

There are various designs for a Dutch oven, the classic design looks like this:

Note: all oven dimensions in the diagram are indicated in centimeters.

As can be seen in the figure, the principle of operation of a Dutch oven is not to have a raging flame in the firebox, but to intensely smolder. Otherwise, the flue gases will very quickly pass through the passage system and be thrown out without transferring heat to the walls. It is for this reason that it is useless to load small wood and other quickly burning fuels into the firebox. If you heat the stove correctly, it will quickly warm up and then retain heat for a long time. The temperature of the outer surface of the masonry in this case is kept within 60 ºС.

Other tips

The living room with the kitchen can be combined and decorated with various shortcomings

It is important to calculate and anticipate everything in advance. Decorators and craftsmen share tips that will help avoid problems during repairs and furnishings:

The result depends on how detailed the project is drawn up. Oddly enough, it is worth taking into account the growth of loved ones and relatives. It is also recommended to calculate the approximate number of possible guests. You can get rid of food smells by installing a strong hood or ventilation system.

Small models are more suitable for housewives who do little cooking. If you plan to have a sleeping place in the living room, then it is important that the ringing of appliances and other kitchen utensils is not heard. Silent dishwashers and other appliances will come in handy.

In addition, you can install a sliding door and install a soundproof partition. If there is sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation, the owners hang thick curtains made of light-proof fabric. If household appliances do not match the direction of the interior, they are hidden behind furniture or put away in kitchen cabinets. When installing luminaires and lamps, they are guided by several criteria

It is important that the light falls evenly throughout the entire space. Especially bright lighting is preferable in the kitchen area and where the dining table is installed

In the living room, designers create a subdued atmosphere using wall sconces and table lamps. Multi-level stretch ceilings with LED strip also look good in this room. Moisture-resistant finishing materials are more durable and easy to clean. Thus, they retain their appearance for a long time. The kitchen combined with the living room combines:

• personal tastes of the owners;
• reliable finishing materials;
• current design ideas;
• convenience;
• trends. The best photos of kitchen living room design

Preparatory work

The weight of the stove is considerable, so they make a full-fledged concrete foundation using formwork:

• Mark the location of the furnace. It is necessary to ensure that the door and window are not on the same line and provide a chimney outlet. The size of the foundation will be 15-20 cm larger than the dimensions of the stove. Using a grinder, dismantle the wooden floor covering.
• Formwork is arranged and the foundation is poured with concrete (the upper level should not reach the floor surface by 2 bricks). Concrete is reinforced not only around the perimeter, but also in depth. To save on materials when constructing a foundation, it is sometimes made of rubble (broken stone, brick or any large construction waste is used).
• Next, they take a break from work for 20 to 25 days to allow the concrete to set.
• Lay a layer of roofing felt folded several times for waterproofing. The layers of roofing felt are connected with a stapler. This is a very important stage, since the Dutch oven is capable of transferring some of the heat to the floor. On a note. If climatic conditions are such that the soil freezes up to one and a half meters, it is recommended to use a layer of basalt cardboard for thermal insulation.

• Plumb lines are arranged to ensure that the oven is strictly vertical. To do this, strings or ropes are pulled, which will act as beacons. If this is not done, each row will need to be monitored not only horizontally, but also with a protractor with a vertical plumb line. If the design “goes to the side,” the performance characteristics of the stove will deteriorate.
• Bricks are selected for masonry and dry masonry is carried out. Mix the clay-based solution in an amount sufficient to use it at a time. On the second day, this solution will lose its quality. Clay is placed in a trough, filled with water and allowed to soak for about 2 days. The solution is stirred, breaking up lumps. The required plasticity is achieved using sand. To improve the quality, the mixture is kneaded with a construction mixer.

How to lay out a high-quality Dutch oven if you have no experience as a mason? There is one trick: before laying out the stove on the mortar, you should practice “dry”.

Preparatory work before assembling the stove

Before installing the stove, the foundation is poured and holes are made in the interfloor and attic floors.

Pouring the foundation

If the installation of the stove is planned during the construction stage of the house, then the foundation is poured at its location. According to the rules, it is not connected to the general foundation of the house, but is laid separately. This prevents unwanted distortions that may occur during shrinkage. The construction of the building is carried out simultaneously with the laying of the stove; when positioning the load-bearing floor beams, the height of the stove body and chimney is taken into account.

For furnace equipment, a foundation is poured that is not connected to the main foundation of the house

If the decision to install a heating unit has arisen in a finished house, carefully weigh and evaluate the work that will have to be done. The most significant ones include preparing the foundation and laying a chimney through the attic or interfloor ceilings. Sometimes it is more expedient to lead the pipe through the wall: the Dutch woman has such an opportunity.

The foundation is prepared in advance. The cement mortar must dry and shrink for at least 30 days. Only after this does the installation of the furnace begin. Otherwise, deformations are possible during operation, which leads to cracking of the thin walls of the stove and a violation of the tightness of the chimney. To avoid such consequences, the foundation is poured in accordance with the rules:

• The foundation is based on dense soil; concrete should not be poured into the soil near groundwater;
• the depth of the pit for filling should not be less than the depth of soil freezing in this region (usually 0.8–0.9 m, with the exception of the Far North);
• the concrete solution is laid on a well-established (within 2 days) sand cushion, which has a depth of 15 to 20 cm and serves as a hydraulic compensator for further operation;
• a reinforcing grid with a metal rod thickness of 5 mm or more is placed inside the concrete;
• the linear dimensions of the foundation should be 15–20 cm larger than the dimensions of the stove base;
• the height of the upper plane does not reach the floor level by 2 brick rows.

Several layers of basalt cardboard are laid between the base of the furnace and the waterproofing, which serves as a heat insulator and prevents the heat of the furnace from escaping into the foundation.

Basalt cardboard is an inexpensive but effective material for thermal insulation

Preparing holes in the floors between floors and the attic

The holes are cut taking into account fireproof cuts and fluffs, which must be built in the chimney in contact with flammable materials. This is especially true in wooden houses. The location of the pipe must be calculated so that it does not intersect with load-bearing beams and other structural elements of the house. The hole in the roof is made last, when the main part of the masonry is completed.

The hole for the chimney is prepared in advance so that plumb lines can be hung

The procedure for venting the chimney outside can be as follows:

1. Remove the roof where the pipe exits. If the roof is covered with a continuous layer of material that cannot be separated (for example, corrugated sheeting, slate, etc.), use measurements to determine the location of the exit and the size of the hole, and then cut it out with a grinder or jigsaw.
2. Install jumpers to restore the rigidity of the damaged area. Usually these are additional cross rafters made of wooden blocks.
3. Lay and secure a heat-insulating layer between the chimney and the roof. Typically, it consists of asbestos sheet or mineral panels.

Make the hole taking into account the fact that at the outlet of the pipe there must be an “otter” laid - a horizontal displacement of the masonry that protects the attic space from water penetration.

The otter is located directly at the pipe exit from the roof

After this, you can remove the brickwork above the roof.

Fire safety standards for chimneys are important to follow when building a Dutch oven

Materials

Over the course of geological history, Sweden has developed rich deposits of excellent fireclay clay based on aluminosilicates, so the Swedish stove was designed taking into account the availability of high-quality fireclay bricks. It is this that makes it possible to develop such a high temperature in the firebox that is necessary for complete afterburning of the fuel under conditions of active heat extraction by the oven.

Fireclay brick

Other elements of the chamber part should be laid out of stove bricks (red ceramic solid) grade M200

It is important that the edges of all ½ or ¾ brick blocks are smooth, so they cannot be prepared using a pick-hammer. You need to either cut it with a grinder or purchase it ready-made

Kiln solid brick

A channel convector can be built from ordinary brick: since the afterburning of gases occurs in the chamber part, they enter here at a temperature below 800 degrees.

The solution is mixed using a special type of clay - regular clay is not suitable. As a rule, marl is used.

Marl

You will also need fireclay clay - the mortar for fireclay bricks will be mixed from it.

Fireclay clay

Mountain sand should be used, which is characterized by a minimum of organic impurities and an angular granule shape. A solution prepared on smooth river sand will quickly crack.

For the construction of a channel convector, a conventional cement-sand mortar is used.

Stove door: cast iron

If you nevertheless decide to use a stamped door, you need to equip it with such fasteners yourself: two pieces of steel wire (annealed) with a diameter of 3–4 mm and a length of 50–70 mm are welded to each corner of the frame. During installation, these “antennae” are spread apart so that their ends are 40–50 mm apart from each other, and placed in the seams. On top of the stamped door you need to arrange an overlap of a steel angle or strip.

Door installation

Products and materials should be purchased according to the following specifications:

1. Kiln brick M200: 717 pcs. (excluding chimney).
2. Fireclay brick, grade Ш8: 154 pcs.
3. Asbestos cord.
4. Pieces of equal-flange steel angle 50x5 mm, length 1020–1030 mm: 2 pcs.
5. Pieces of steel strip 50x5 mm: 3 pcs. 920 mm long, 2 pcs. 54 mm long, 2 pcs. 48 mm long.
6. Grate with dimensions 200x300 mm.
7. Door for the firebox, size - 250x210 mm.
8. Blower door, size - 140x140 mm.
9. Cleaning doors size 140x140 mm: 8 pcs.
10. Oven with dimensions 450x360x300 mm.
11. Chimney dampers size 250x130 mm: 3 pcs.
12. Cooking plate dimensions 710x410 mm.
13. Fireplace grate 690–700 mm long. In the absence of a purchased one, you can weld it from a steel rod.
14. Material for installing a fireproof coating in front of the furnace: steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm or ceramic tiles.

The floor must be protected within a radius of 1.2 m from the center of the fire door.

Furnaces Grum-Grzhimailo

The principle of constructing the Grum-Grzhimailo stove includes: constructing the stove with belts; therefore, its casing is, as it were, divided into compartments. Rows of bricks are laid out in a finished casing, using it as formwork; as they are laid out, the casing is simply increased, and so on until the end. The casing itself is made of durable iron; after installing the casing, it is covered with bricks. If the casing is installed crookedly, it may fall and the entire stove may collapse.

It must be remembered that Grum-Grzhimailo stoves have a rather serious drawback, this is a horseshoe-shaped channel for smoke, it constantly needs cleaning. Therefore, it is necessary to provide two cleaning flaps for this.

Types of Dutch women

For general convenience, Dutch ovens are divided into several types, depending on the size and method of laying:

1. Big oven. Complex in its design, the large Dutchman is made only by professionals. Capable of heating a room of more than 70 sq.m.
2. Small oven. Suitable for a small room of 20 sq.m. easy to construct, reaching no more than half a meter in length.
3. Round. The economical and miniature stove belongs to the German variety of Dutch ovens. Its disadvantage is the need for constant cleaning due to the intense accumulation of soot.
4. Kolpakovaya. It has a special cap to retain furnace gases before they exit into the chimney. This allows the stove to work more productively, but increases the likelihood of smoke in the room.
5. Grum-Grzhimailo. The system of this furnace was invented by the Soviet professor Grum-Grzhimailo. His furnaces are built on the principle of free movement of gases. They have a complex design. Their structure requires a foundation; the bricks themselves are located inside a metal casing.
6. Stove with stove and oven. A miniature stove that will not only warm up the room, but also heat and cook food. The heat from the firebox evenly heats the surface of the stove; the oven heats up more because it is located closer to the firebox. You won’t be able to regulate the oven temperature, but such a Dutch oven will definitely save energy. An excellent option for a summer residence.

According to its cross-section, the Dutch can be square, round and rectangular. All of them warm up the rooms well and are selected according to the personal preferences of the owner of the house.

Rules for constructing a Dutch oven

Any modification of the Dutch woman requires compliance with certain rules:

• It is necessary to install a foundation separate from the house. Therefore, you need to think about the construction of a Dutch house at the stage of building a house. You need to find a specific place for the stove so that the chimney ducts do not fall under the beams or roofing. If you do not plan for the construction of the Dutch house in advance, you will need to dismantle the floors. The foundation must be done, since the stove has a lot of weight. If you connect the base to the foundation of the house, cracks will appear due to the difference in loads. The stove will shrink, become deformed, and the chimney will move. As a result of depressurization of the seams, the stove will become a fire hazard, and carbon monoxide smoke will penetrate into the house.
• The foundation must be covered with a waterproofing agent.

At the stage of constructing the combustion chamber, high quality refractory bricks should be used. You can't tie it with a regular one. The mortar for masonry must be special - clay, fireproof

You can purchase a ready-made mixture or make it yourself. It is important to maintain the thickness of the seam - the combustion chamber, no more than 5 mm, the entire rest of the structure - from 5 to 8 mm.

Zoning

Designers do not advise giving in to fashion trends and copying design ideas without taking into account dimensions, location and other nuances. Before planning and arranging furniture, every detail is thought through. There are several simple rules that experts advise you to follow:

• Let the room have natural light. To do this, remove excess walls (except for load-bearing ones).
• If the rooms in the apartment are small (12 sq. m or 16 sq. m), the layout of the kitchen combined with the dining room will be the right solution.
• If the ventilation system is not designed correctly, the smell of food will spread throughout the apartment.

Tips and tricks

For a room with an area of ​​40 sq. meters, you can calculate the required dimensions of the furnace. With a furnace height of 210 mm, the optimal size is 780 x 580 mm.

To improve the quality of the masonry, before using the bricks, experts advise immersing each of them in water for several minutes, which helps remove air bubbles from them.

Thanks to this procedure, the brick will not absorb the mortar, which will improve the quality of the masonry.

Since the door frames installed during the masonry process are subject to temperature effects, before installing them in a Dutch oven, they must be wrapped with asbestos cord or coated with varnish that has fire-resistant properties.

The most common problem that requires repairs to a previously used furnace is chipping of bricks at the ends and corners of the furnace. To prevent this, during the masonry process they finish with specialized plates of various shapes.

Another important indicator of the quality and long-term operation of a Dutch oven, according to experienced stove makers, is the distance between the chimney pipe and the roof slabs. Ideally, it should be at least 15 cm.

Experts recommend building walls one brick thick for small structures, and two bricks thick for more massive structures. Only this thickness can ensure maximum heat transfer with minimal fuel consumption, characteristic of a Dutch oven.

How to deal with condensation

When burning wood, resin condensate settles on the walls of the chimney, which flows down and forms peculiar stalactites in the stove. Of course, some of these stalactites burn, but some of them harden and create an obstacle to the flow of escaping gases.

To avoid this you can do the following:

• pre-dry the wood;
• increase combustion temperature;
• From time to time, burn the structure to a “red heat”.

It is impossible to neutralize such negative factors, but they can be reduced.

The chimney assembly must be carried out against the movement of gases - this way most of them will be burned.

The chimney must be quickly dismantled if necessary. To do this, it is connected with self-tapping screws.

You can experiment with different combustion modes and find the optimal temperature. To visually assess fuel combustion, you need to inspect the combustion chamber after cooling. If stalactites have formed, then the temperature needs to be increased.

Recommendations for beginning builders

• The area intended for the construction of a Dutch house should have dimensions of 780x580 mm. In this case we are talking about the construction of a structure with a height of 210 mm.
• All bricks must first be immersed in water for a couple of minutes. This will allow air to escape from the material, which will improve the quality of the masonry.
• The doors should be wrapped around the edges with asbestos cord or treated with fire-resistant varnish.
• To prevent bricks from breaking off at the ends or corners, care should be taken to finish them with special steel plates.
• The distance from the roof to the chimney must be at least 15 cm.

You can build a Dutch oven with your own hands very quickly, but a novice stove maker should not rush. It is best to build 3-5 rows daily , adhering to the order. This will help ensure that the masonry is truly even. As a result, the finished structure will be strong and durable.

Galandka stoves

Features of operation

A characteristic feature of Dutch ovens is the increased length of the chimney channels. This is precisely why the stove works so well at heat transfer. But at the same time, with such a flue arrangement, the likelihood of carbon monoxide entering the living space increases.

To prevent this from happening, it is important to observe the correct combustion mode: the heating temperature of the housing should not exceed 60° Celsius

Oven cleaning and repair

In order for the Dutch machine to work without surprises, it is necessary to monitor its technical condition:

• clean the firebox and ash pit from ash every day;
• Perform preventive cleaning of the chimney once a year;
• Once every 4–5 years, inspect the internal and external walls, and if cracks are detected, repair them.

Anyone can build a Dutch oven on their own without outside help. By following the described recommendations and following the ordering diagrams, the heating unit can be easily assembled in 1 week.

Varieties of Dutch ovens

Classic design

Based on a simple Dutch woman, craftsmen are able to create real works of art. The external surface can be finished with tiles, natural stone and other materials. To save space, most stoves are built in corners. A variant of the square device is the round Dutch oven. They are often performed in cases - metal casings. You can also buy ready-made units, for example, Weber GBS.

Initially, the stove was only a heating device. Over time, the design was improved, and options with a fireplace, tiles, oven, and even a bed began to appear. The latest model is usually installed between the kitchen and the living room, which allows the heat, after heating the kitchen, to move to the living area, where the owner can relax.

Classic Dutch

A device of this type is an excellent choice for a summer residence. It warms up the room quickly, cools down slowly, is easy to install, and economical in materials. To operate the stove, it is necessary to prepare firewood or coal. As a rule, such units are six-channel. Laying is carried out on the foundation base according to a simple scheme.

Stove-fireplace

Dutch woman with fireplace

To heat the house and create comfort, a Dutch heating stove is turned into a fireplace. The masonry differs from the classic one in that instead of a cast-iron door, a heat-resistant glass door of the required size is installed on the combustion chamber. To maintain the fireplace style, the stove maker rounds the corners of the brick, works out the geometry, increases the foundation and builds an ash pit and a chimney on the second row of masonry.

With oven

The oven hole is located above the combustion chamber and under the hob. Because of this, the standard dimensions of the Dutch oven change slightly and the costs of materials increase. With its help, you can cook more dishes with the same consumption of firewood. It is difficult to bake cakes in a stove oven due to the lack of a temperature regulator, but other dishes: bread, pizzas, pies, vegetable and cottage cheese casseroles, meat - turn out with a bang.

Cooking Dutchwoman

To use the stove for cooking food outside of the oven, a cast iron hob is placed above the firebox on the fifth row of the masonry. A layer of clay-based fireproof mortar is laid between the metal and the brick. The area above the hob is placed on a metal corner. A Dutch oven with a hob is good for preserving vegetables in the country: it is used to sterilize jars and the finished product.

With water circuit

Such a device heats many more rooms and provides hot water to the entire house. A metal boiler with a coolant is built into the stove array, which is heated directly by burning wood. One pipe extends from the boiler and serves to distribute heated water throughout the house. The water circuit, passing along the walls of all rooms, returns the liquid back to the heating tank.

Types of Dutch ovens

There are many models of Dutch ovens. Some devices create real works of art. The outer surface of the units can be lined with tiles, natural stone and other materials. To save space, many stoves are made corner, which has a positive effect on their aesthetic qualities.

This heating device is universal, since its design can include a hob or fireplace. Another variation of the Dutch oven is a round oven. It has an original appearance, but is complex in design and operation.

Laying a Dutch oven with your own hands

The Dutch oven is built in rows with your own hands, so we will analyze everything step by step.

1 row. The very beginning needs to be arranged on the top sand cushion, measuring the location of each brick with a measuring tool. We must maintain horizontality. We cover the laid bricks with cement mortar - this is both the beginning of the laying and the final stage associated with the base.

2nd and 3rd row. They are simply laid in layers, naturally, treated with a solution. It is advisable to mark each of them with a number for accuracy. From this moment we begin to deal with plumb lines that will form the horizontal further. Stove makers have a term: “bandaging” is when a fresh row overlaps the joints on the previous one. Dressing needs to be learned at an early stage.

4.5 row. From the fourth row, the construction of the ash pit begins. Assembling from the stand. We lay whole bricks not flat, but on an edge. For your information, the back wall is done dry, because further operation involves adding bricks in this area. Of course, it is not prohibited to install a small door, but this is detrimental to efficiency.

At the same level we install a door that needs to be secured to the base using soft wire. The seal can be easily maintained using an asbestos cord.

6,7,8 rows. Construction of the ash pit continues. We simply cover the top with masonry so that there is space left for the fire grate.

From 9 to 13 rows. This is the gap for the combustion chamber arrangement. Here we install the door using soft wire and asbestos cord as fastening.

14,15 row. We close the firebox next to the brickwork, leaving an opening at the back. Excess smoke should be removed through it.

16, 17 row. Arranging a hole for cleaning, where you will need a small door similar to an ash pan. To save money, you can install bricks without mortar. It will reduce heat loss.

Rows 18–26. More responsible levels, because work is underway with the return channels. Made in the style of a classic coil. There should be no protrusions on the inside of the walls, so it is better to coat the coil with clay.

27 row. The final stage of masonry. All channels are closed. Only the chimney should remain. It is better to move the bricks a few centimeters back.

29, 30 row. A chimney is formed and a valve (view) is installed. The latter will regulate draft and retain heat after complete closure.

For beginners! During each stage, you need to maintain vertical and horizontal.

Chimney for a Dutch oven: we work with our own hands

This is a mandatory element, and the height parameters are always individual. The main thing is to comply with fire regulations.

Those spaces where the chimney borders a roof or other structure must be insulated. Gaps may only be closed with non-combustible material.

The difference between the stove itself and the chimney is the composition of the masonry mortar. If we make rows with clay and sand, then we need to add 1/10 of the cement to the chimney. The end is the installation of a metal cap on an already built chimney.

Final finishing

Finishing work is always organized according to your taste. The stove is whitewashed with your own hands and lined with decorative tiles. You can use tiles. But if the process of creating the stove was careful, then the front part of the brick will look excellent.

For safe operation, a sheet of steel is fixed to the floor, which will protect against accidental release of coals, and, therefore, fire.

Having completed everything that was planned, do not rush to start using or drying. It takes at least 15 days to dry

Moreover, it is important to dry the inside naturally, so the door to the firebox is left open

And after 2 weeks they begin full-fledged ignition. Before starting use, it is better to burn a small amount of paper to test traction. If everything is done correctly, the smoke will pass into the chimney without problems.

Furnace laying

Before you start laying, you need to prepare a solution and perform a few simple steps to prepare the foundation.

Preparation of the solution

Sift the sand and break up large pieces of clay. The crushed clay also needs to be sifted. The mesh from an armored bed will perfectly cope with the functions of a sieve. If this is not available, use a simple sieve with cells of similar sizes.

Soak the clay in water for several hours. Drain off any excess water not absorbed by the clay.

Let the clay swell and mix it with sand in equal quantities. Add about 1/8 of clean water to the same mixture. Carry out the calculation in accordance with the resulting volume of sand-clay mixture.

Prices for fireproof mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Fireproof mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Preliminary preparation of the foundation

Cover the frozen foundation with waterproofing material. Roofing felt will do. You can also use waterproofing or other material with similar properties.

Waterproofing

Order

Order

Let's start laying.

Laying out the first row. It will consist of 12 bricks. We make sure that the masonry is level using a level and only after that we fill the surface of the base with clay mortar.

An example of laying bricks on insulation

Install the ash door. We first wrap it with asbestos cord. We use steel wire to secure the door. Insert the wire into the box and twist it twice. We make a cut in the top edge of the brick. We insert the wire into it, bend it and intertwine it with the masonry.

We lay out the second row in order.

Laying the stoveBe sure to pull plumb lines so that the stove is strictly vertical

The third and next rows, marked in yellow, are laid out from refractory bricks.

Between the 3rd and 4th rows we lay a grate with dimensions of 200 x 300 mm.

The grate is laid

We place the bricks of the fourth row on edge. The diagram contains bricks marked in red. We lay the internal partition in the chimney on them. We make the back brick “knock out”, i.e. lay it down without mortar. In the future, we will be able to remove such bricks and clean the oven. A convenient solution that eliminates the need to install a door.

Furnace masonry Furnace masonry

Install the combustion chamber door. The recommendations are the same as in the case of the blower door.

Installation of the combustion door. The photo shows how to insert and twist the wire - lockInstalling the fire door

We lay out the fifth row similarly to the previous one. We lay the bricks flat.

In the 6th row we lay out the bricks on edge. We work in order.

Dutch masonry

In the 7th row we place bricks flat everywhere except the back wall - we lay it out “on edge”. In all subsequent rows we place the bricks flat.

Dutch masonry Fire door

On the eighth row we close the firebox door. We bevel the internal fire bricks above the combustion chamber. This will allow us to use the stove as a fireplace if desired. This can be seen in the diagram.

Dutch masonryDutch masonry Stove coverStove cover

We move the ninth row back. We lay asbestos cardboard on top of it, and then a cast iron hob, if necessary. We fill the joints between the slab and the brick with asbestos cord.

On the 10th row we begin to lay out the base for the chimney. The continuation of the structure will be metal.

Lay out the 11th row and install the valve. We first wrap the valve with asbestos cord.

Construction of a DutchwomanConstruction of a DutchwomanConstruction of a DutchwomanConstruction of a Dutchwoman

When laying the 12th row, we make a joint between the metal pipe and the chimney. The chimney is taken out of the house through the roof. We line the intersections with mineral wool or other heat-insulating material. The height of the structure is determined individually. It should rise at least 50 cm above the highest point of the roof.

Construction of a Dutch ovenConstruction of a Dutch ovenConstruction of a furnaceConstruction of a furnaceConstruction of a furnaceConstruction of a furnaceConstruction of a furnaceConstruction of a furnaceDetailed diagram of the laying of a Dutch oven

Perform the final finishing of the Dutch at your discretion. It can be whitewashed, beautifully tiled with tiles or tiles, or left without decoration at all - the bricks look beautiful anyway.

The finished oven must be allowed to dry for at least 2 weeks. Do not close the firebox door. Only after the specified time will it be possible to build a full-fledged fire in the oven. Before putting the Dutch oven into permanent use, burn some paper in the firebox to check the draft. The smoke must escape through the chimney.

Now you know how to build a Dutch oven yourself. Follow the recommendations received and everything will definitely work out.

Pre-furnace steel sheet

Good luck!

Dutchwoman device

Diagram and dimensions of a classic Dutch oven

The diagram of the classic, original Dutch oven is shown in the figure. The principle of its operation is simple: the path of flue gases is artificially lengthened, which is why they more fully transfer heat to the body of the furnace. There are no physical-chemical-thermodynamic subtleties provided for, therefore, disrupting something in the smoke circulation is no easier than breaking an ax.

This design arose under the influence of the specific conditions of the medieval Netherlands. The original Dutch woman is a heating stove for residential premises; cooked on a fireplace or hearth.

Firstly, it was always crowded in Holland. The Dutch had to conquer their fields - polders - from the sea. The Dutch could not afford to “dance from the stove”; the stove had to be built into the house, which, in turn, was built according to the available piece of land. A simple, compact and flexible design was required - the first Dutch women were laid out in place, and the established designs later survived as a result of natural selection.

Therefore, the canonical order, as for the Russian stove, is absent as such for the Dutch stove. And now Dutch women are often designed to meet specific requirements; Computer programs are used for this. Due to the simplicity of the principles inherent in the Dutch oven, its thermal properties change little as a result, as long as the basic proportions are maintained.

Secondly, the climate of Holland, like all of Western Europe, is formed under the influence of the Gulf Stream, and therefore in winter it is very uneven: a positive thaw can suddenly give way to severe frost. In general, winters are mild. Therefore, a stove was required that could quickly heat up with a minimum amount of fuel. This was achieved by a large ratio of the area of ​​the tortuous inner surface to the volume of material used. But it is also not small, so the Dutch oven combines fast heating with good heat capacity.

Thirdly, homeowners paid property taxes “from the smoke,” from the chimney. The more chimneys, the greater the burden on the household. That is why a side outlet of flue gases was needed, so that several or many furnaces could be discharged into one pipe. Here the problem of compatibility of stoves arises, so that the one that burns hotter does not force the others to smoke, displacing their exits from the chimney. But a rather complex-looking labyrinth of channels is actually not so difficult to lay out, but it is difficult to blow back through. This also ensured that there was no smoke when blowing into the pipe, which is not uncommon in coastal Holland.

Finally, due to the same cramped conditions, the city's Dutch houses stretched high. 5-6 storey building in the XIV-XV centuries. in Holland was not surprising. But there were no concrete floors then, so the furnace had to be lightweight and, therefore, low in material consumption. In general, the Dutch oven acquired some of the properties of box-shaped honeycomb structures, including strength, at a time when there was no such thing.

But there was no need to adapt the stove to waste fuel. The Dutch have never been a poor nation. Herring, cod, flounder, high-quality livestock products, maritime trade - and in run-down-looking fishermen's houses, a hefty bag of gold guilders was always kept in the closet. And nearby were rich coal deposits in the north of France and Germany.

And what did the Dutch achieve as a result of their, then still intuitive, delights? Let's get a look.

Construction of houses

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The ultra-fashionable heating device has long ceased to be a curiosity of the modern interior, and therefore, having learned about the development of new models, consumers are constantly increasing their requirements for their ergonomics and functionality. One of these structures that fully satisfied the requirements of consumers was the Dutch oven, which is widely used in the construction of both simple country houses and stylish cottages. It is one of those unique structures in which both simplicity of design and colossal operational efficiency coexist. Unlike the classic Russian stove, the Dutch stove is characterized by much more modest dimensions and thinner walls, which contributes to its faster heating. Taking this into account, the Dutch heating stove is becoming the most popular choice of owners of stylish and modern cottages who want not only to manage their budget economically, but also to equip their home in accordance with all the rules of ergonomics. Due to the fact that professional services associated with laying a Dutch oven cost a lot of money, we strongly recommend that you install a Dutch oven with your own hands, using our recommendations.

Content

1. Dutch oven: historical background
2. Design features of the Dutch oven. Differences from traditional ovens
3. Advantages and disadvantages of a Dutch oven
4. Arranging a Dutch oven: tips to help a beginner?
5. DIY Dutch oven: materials and tools
6. Making a Dutch oven: step-by-step instructions
7. Arranging a Dutch oven
8. Tips and recommendations from experienced craftsmen
9. In conclusion

Dutch oven: historical background

The Dutch oven has been known since the time of Columbus, but despite this, it gained true worldwide popularity only in the 16th century, when the Netherlands became an independent state. Since the 18th century, the installation of a Dutch oven has become practically the norm, and the 19th century was marked by the mass recognition of the Dutch oven, after which this design became dominant when choosing heating devices. In the Middle Ages and the New Age, the Dutchwoman began to be associated with exquisite tiles depicting paintings by great artists decorating the stove, and since then, tiles and the Dutchwoman stove are inseparable concepts. Currently, this method of decoration has lost its significance, but despite this, it is still a historical companion of the Dutch oven, a photo of which can be seen below.

Dutch oven photo

Design features of the Dutch oven. Differences from traditional ovens

Although you can build a Dutch oven of any shape, be it oval, round or square, the classic version is characterized by a strictly rectangular shape. If you decide to allow variability in the shape of the stove, you should know that the shape of the firebox, no matter what, remains constant - rectangular. The main difference between a Dutch oven and other varieties is the absence of a grate. The design, for the manufacture of which solid ceramic brick is used, is characterized by the presence of the following components:

• The firebox, also called the firebox, is a stove niche that is located at the base in the lower part of the stove and is intended for storing coal or firewood;
• The chimney, of which the exhaust pipe is an integral part, forms a six-channel system consisting of 3 rising and 3 lowering channels, which are located one below the other, which ensures the sequential passage of gases through the system. But, unlike traditional ovens, the Dutch oven design does not imply the presence of a grate.

• Due to the absence of a blower and grate, the firewood in this stove is characterized by low combustion intensity, since the oxygen supplied to the fuel only through the firebox door is not enough to maintain active combustion.
• Due to the fact that this stove is characterized by small dimensions, it will successfully fit into the interior of any room, and, importantly, allows you to equip both gas and water heating systems.
• Door for cleaning soot from chimney pipes.
• In addition to the traditional design of the stove, there are exceptions: Dutch ovens, equipped with a fireplace, hob or oven.
• Experts recommend building walls one brick thick for small structures, and two bricks thick for more massive structures. Only this thickness can ensure maximum heat transfer with minimal fuel consumption, characteristic of a Dutch oven.

Advantages and disadvantages of a Dutch oven

What you need to know about the advantages of a Dutch oven?

• Design variability. Except for gross technical errors, design variations will not have the slightest effect on the strength and effectiveness of the device;
• High functionality: a Dutch oven, originally intended for heating, can be equipped with a hob and used for cooking;
• The small dimensions of a Dutch oven may not exceed 0.5 x 0.5 m;
• Less material consumption compared to traditional stoves, not exceeding 650 bricks for a massive structure, while the minimum brick consumption for a Russian stove is 1300 bricks, and heating a small Russian stove will be much worse;
• The low weight, due to the low consumption of materials, makes it possible to install a Dutch stove on the upper floors of country cottages, since the maximum load from the stove does not exceed the maximum permissible load for standard interfloor ceilings;
• Unpretentiousness to materials is a characteristic feature of the Dutch woman. It is due to the rational design of the furnace and the small thickness of the walls, which makes it resistant to deformation under the influence of temperatures. In this connection, you can even choose hollow brick as the main material for a Dutch oven, which will not in any way affect its functional characteristics. The only thing you cannot skimp on is the material for the firebox; it must certainly be made of refractory brick;
• Due to the fact that the Dutch oven warms up quickly and cools down slowly, with regular use of the stove you can forget about excessive fuel consumption;
• High level of heat transfer: unlike a Russian stove, which can barely cope with heating a room whose area is 45 square meters. m, the Dutch oven easily heats 60-70 sq. meters.

And now a few words about the shortcomings:

• The chimney, which is based on a system of channels, acts as a siphon through which heat is blown out. This contributes to the rapid cooling of the furnace and the associated low efficiency;
• It is not recommended to heat a Dutch oven with fuel characterized by instant combustion: this includes brushwood, dry reeds and straw. During its combustion, due to the duct chimney system, the stove does not have time to warm up properly. In this regard, high-quality operation of the stove is only possible when the fuel is in smoldering mode;
• If you use low-grade, high-ash fuel to fire a Dutch oven, this can lead to excessive soot settling in the chimney, which can cause a fire.
• It is very important not to overheat your Dutch oven, as when it overheats it begins to release carbon monoxide.

Note! The optimal temperature of the Dutch oven is 50-60 degrees. This temperature is easy to determine by touch: if, when you touch the stove with your palm, you can still endure it, and when the back of your hand touches the stove, you feel a strong burning sensation, then the temperature does not exceed 60 degrees.

From a mechanical point of view, the principle of operation of the furnace is extremely simple. Gases heated in the firebox first enter the chimney, or rather the first lifting channel. Having passed through it and reaching the top, characterized by a fairly low temperature, they pass through the second opening, without ceasing to give off thermal energy to the furnace walls. Having reached the firebox, they undergo heating again, after which they rise again, but through the third channel. The same principle underlies the passage of heat through the fourth and fifth channels. Only after this, through the sixth shaft, the air reaches the firebox and exits through the chimney.

Arranging a Dutch oven: tips to help a beginner?

For a beginner who has decided to try his hand at the construction industry for the first time, experts strongly recommend pre-building the stove in accordance with all the recommendations presented, but without using concrete mortar. Conducting this experiment, which received the prosaic name “dry masonry,” will save time on developing a furnace drawing and at the same time prevent the most common mistakes. To ensure that the quality of the finished stove’s masonry does not let you down, you must strictly follow the instructions and drawings proposed by professionals. This will allow you to avoid the main mistake of beginners - poor quality of masonry due to the common “construction by eye”.

DIY Dutch oven: materials and tools

Before you start planning your system, plan ahead for where to place it. It will be ideal if you do this during the construction stage of the house. The next stage is to select high-quality materials and tools. For a typical Dutch oven designed to heat a room of 40 square meters. m, you will need the following materials and tools:

• 200 fire bricks;
• River sand, preferably sifted;
• Wire that can be easily bent;
• Crushed gravel and blue clay, necessary for more stable adhesion of the solution;
• Cement;
• Roofing material necessary for waterproofing;
• A door for arranging a firebox, preferably factory-made;
• Dry adhesive for stove masonry, fire-resistant.
• The tools you will need are a building level, a trowel, a shovel, a tape measure and other tools from the standard set.

Making a Dutch oven: step-by-step instructions

In order to prevent the occurrence of gross technical errors during the installation process, before proceeding with installation activities, experts recommend drawing up a diagram of the future structure, in accordance with which you will subsequently install the structure.

Dutch oven diagram

At the first stage, you need to dig a hole with the following parameters: side width 50 cm, depth 75-80 cm. Fill the bottom of the hole with river sand with a layer height of 10 cm and a 10 cm layer of gravel. Place reinforced mesh on top so that it occupies the entire remaining area of ​​the pit. Then prepare the concrete mortar based on the ratio of cement to sand as 3:1. Prepare formwork of appropriate sizes from plywood or wood and fill the area with concrete, then leave it for 7 days until completely dry.

After the foundation has completely dried, lay two identical pieces of roofing material on it, and evenly apply clay on top, which has been soaked in water for at least two days in accordance with the following ratio: for 8 liters of clay you need to take about 1 kg (or rather 900 g) of heat-resistant glue and 2 buckets of sand. Before applying the mixture to the surface, stir it evenly and, making sure that the consistency of the mixture resembles thick sour cream, begin applying it.

Arranging a Dutch oven

If objectively you do not consider yourself professionals in the construction industry, experienced craftsmen recommend starting with dry masonry, that is, laying a Dutch oven without using it, which will help avoid possible mistakes. The design of a Dutch oven is very variable and depends on the size of the structure. In our article we will describe the procedure for constructing a small furnace.

The first row of brickwork is located on sand moistened with water, which is spread over the entire area of ​​the concrete foundation. It is important to know that before pouring the solution, you need to check the level and, according to the measurement results, it must be strictly vertical;

The first and second rows of the stove masonry must be continuous. At the same time, we must not forget about the rules of bonding between bricks;

At the level of the third row, it is necessary to begin the formation of the ash chamber, which is a space for the oven, which is connected to the horizontal channel. Once you have begun shaping the ash chamber, you can begin installing the ash chamber door;

The laying of the 4th row is based on building up the overall mass of the furnace, and therefore, at this stage, they begin to install the firebox door, which necessitates the laying of parts of the metal wire that will be required to secure the door. At this stage, it is necessary to mention the features of the masonry: if during the laying of the first three rows the bricks were laid flat, then the laying of the fourth row implies their installation on the edge up to the upper edge of the door;

An ash pit is installed at the level of the fifth row, and in the process of laying the sixth row they again return to building up the mass of the Dutch oven;

After you have lined the ash pit door, at the level of the 7th row it is covered, and the bricks are again laid flat. The same thing is repeated on the 8th row;

If your stove arrangement involves the presence of a hob, you need to make room for it, which can be achieved by moving the 9th and 10th levels slightly back. After this, a combustion hole is arranged. After laying the 9th row, a non-flammable material (asbestos cord) is placed on top of it, and a hob is installed on it. The 10th row is associated with the formation of the base for the future chimney. In stoves characterized by lightness and low weight, a metal chimney is installed, since a brick chimney will significantly make the structure heavier.

During the laying of the 11th row, a valve is installed, which is characterized by the presence of an asbestos seal. At this level, the masonry is done in quarters, since this is where the junction of the chimney and the stove is localized;

At the level of the 14th row, the firebox is blocked at the top, and a hole must be left in the back wall designed to release excess smoke. The same is done at the level of the 15th row;

The 16th and 17th rows are associated with the formation of a cleaning door, which can be replaced with ordinary bricks laid without concrete mortar;

When laying the 18th row, it is important to remember that it represents the base of the stove chimney. After its formation, a chimney is installed, which can be purchased or made from bricks of a similar type.

Tips and recommendations from experienced craftsmen

• For a room with an area of ​​40 sq. meters, you can calculate the required dimensions of the furnace. With a furnace height of 210 mm, the optimal size is 780 x 580 mm.
• To improve the quality of the masonry, before using the bricks, experts advise immersing each of them in water for several minutes, which helps remove air bubbles from them. Thanks to this procedure, the brick will not absorb the mortar, which will improve the quality of the masonry;
• Since the door frames installed during the masonry process are subject to temperature effects, before installing them in a Dutch oven, they must be wrapped with asbestos cord or coated with varnish that has fire-resistant properties;

• The most common problem that requires repairs to a previously used furnace is chipping of bricks at the ends and corners of the furnace. To prevent this, during the masonry process they finish with specialized plates of various shapes;
• Another important indicator of the quality and long-term operation of a Dutch oven, according to experienced stove makers, is the distance between the chimney pipe and the roof slabs. Ideally, it should be at least 15 cm.

In conclusion

On many sites you can find a large number of articles in which they naively claim that installing a Dutch oven does not present any difficulties and even the most inexperienced developer can cope with it. But this is far from the case, and if you do not feel confident in your skills, we recommend that you be patient and diligent, and carefully study the recommendations presented in the manuals written by more experienced craftsmen. In our article, experienced craftsmen shared with you their experience in building a Dutch oven, and if you strictly follow them, you will be able to build a Dutch oven with your own hands, avoiding serious mistakes that can often turn into tragedy. In this regard, we recommend that you do not engage in amateur activities or experiments in the stove business, and strictly follow the advice of the masters.

Dutch oven video

The principles of laying a Dutch oven with your own hands

Before you begin installing the Dutch oven, you should learn the basics of masonry:

1. Initially, a high-quality foundation is made; it must be allowed to dry thoroughly - this will take at least 7 days.
2. The first two rows of bricks are installed on the foundation without using mortar. This is done in order to get your bearings and not confuse the brick laying algorithm in the future.
3. The laying is carried out in accordance with the scheme prepared in advance.
4. The fire doors are attached to the frames using an asbestos cord and secured with hardened wire. If the doors are tightly secured in the masonry, it will burst when heated.
5. Only refractory bricks are used for the firebox.
6. The stove can be made from any brick that can withstand high temperatures, but it does not have to be fireproof.
7. The seams in the firebox should correspond to a thickness of 3–5 mm, in other parts of the stove - from 5 to 8 mm.
8. Be sure to use a level during construction so that the walls are smooth, without distortions or other defects.

Expert advice

The installation of a Dutch oven is quite simple and its operation, as a rule, does not cause any special problems for the stoker. However, after installing it, you should wait about two weeks so that the structure dries properly.

For the first fires, it is advisable to use paper and small wood chips to put the Dutch oven into operation. After several days of such heating, the Dutch oven can be fully heated.

Building a Dutch oven with your own hands is not a difficult task, but it requires utmost attention and accuracy. Not only the functionality, but also the safety of the stove depends on the correct execution of the masonry.

DIY Dutch construction

Building a Dutch oven with your own hands is much easier than building a complex Russian oven. Modern stove makers have developed ordering models for every taste and size. A ready-made diagram for laying a Dutch oven is the most affordable and reliable way to build a fireplace without the help of craftsmen.

Basic rules for laying stoves

There are a lot of stove designs, but the principles of masonry remain unchanged:

• the hearth is installed on a separate foundation, covered with waterproofing material;
• the first row is always laid dry, without mortar;
• for the firebox you can only use refractory bricks, which cannot be combined with ordinary bricks;
• for construction you need to mix clay mortar or buy modern heat-resistant mixtures recommended by the manufacturer for furnace equipment;
• the thickness of the seam when laying refractory bricks should be 3-5 mm, and when working with ordinary bricks, a layer of mortar of 5-8 mm should be maintained;
• It takes at least two weeks to dry the building; during this period the doors are left open.

To heat your house, you can try to build a simple Dutch oven with your own hands according to the drawings and row diagram, laying out the rows step by step.

Dutch woman's order chart

Dutch series circuit with increased efficiency

The author of this heating stove managed to increase the efficiency of the hearth due to a modified design. In the upper mass of the structure, the channels for gases are supplemented by four caps. The firebox has two small windows measuring 7*10 cm. The body has several stoves.

The equipment is designed for a room with an area of ​​50 to 60 square meters. The size of the base is 102*153 cm. To build a simple Dutch oven with your own hands, you will need ceramic bricks with smooth edges. The finished structure does not require plastering or finishing.

Heating and cooking stove with stove and oven

To maximize the functionality of an overseas hearth, domestic stove makers supplemented it with a hob and oven. This modification has become a worthy alternative to the multifunctional, but bulky and expensive Russian stove.

The cast iron stove is mounted at the height of the third, fourth or fifth row from the firebox. The stove is located in a niche of a high structure, but this design looks impressive and is convenient enough to use the device for its intended purpose.

A cast iron oven is placed above the firebox. For this purpose, the easiest way is to buy a ready-made accessory. If you need a Dutch oven with a stove and oven, the compact dimensions of the structure are slightly expanded. The oven is built in parallel with the firebox door, and the hob is placed above the firebox.

Fireplace stoves based on Dutch

Modern man needs not only warmth and food, but also spectacle. The answer to increased needs was Dutch ovens with fireplace inserts closed by transparent doors made of fireproof glass.

To build a fireplace Dutch oven with your own hands, you should slightly expand the base of the structure. The formation of the ash pit and chimney begins already on the second row of masonry, and holes for cleaning are also provided here.

Inexperienced craftsmen, starting to delve into the process of building a home, often encounter a problem: those designs for which there is enough knowledge become uninteresting, and complex and functional stoves require skill. There is only one way out - entrust the work to a professional and carefully observe the process, gaining the missing knowledge.

Tools and building materials

To build a Dutch oven with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• raw materials for creating the foundation;
• binder solution;
• refractory and simple solid bricks;
• oven doors;
• sheets of metal;
• steel wire;
• asbestos cord.

Basic tools are required: a trowel for applying mortar, a hammer or sledgehammer for compacting, an angle grinder for trimming bricks, a plumb line, a level, a tape measure.

For the construction of a Dutch house, building materials of low quality, and even previously used ones, will do just fine. When using crushed bricks, the rough side is installed on the outside. As for the solution, its consistency should resemble sour cream. You can create it yourself from sand, clay and water or buy it ready-made at a hardware store.

The best replacement for a Russian stove

In Russia, such a stove appeared in the 18th century, and by the 20th century it was widespread throughout the USSR.
In Siberia, this stove was often chosen due to its simple design and the ability to excellently heat the bottom of the stove. A significant difference between the Dutch stove and the Russian stove was the presence of a chimney, with the help of which the smoke could completely escape outside the room. Nowadays you can find a Dutch oven in country houses and expensive cottages. It is not uncommon for people in the country to make this stove with their own hands in our time. There is no standard masonry pattern for a Dutch woman. A person should only adhere to the basic rules of masonry. It is because of this that there are many designs, shapes and types of Dutch.