How to correctly and quickly lay tiles on the floor with your own hands

Thanks to the easy care of the surface and the ability to withstand heavy loads, the tiles have no equal in the field of tiling rooms with high humidity. To learn how to lay it correctly with your own hands, you just need to be patient and have the right tools and materials.

Be sure to read our article to the end to find out how to lay tiles on the floor several times faster and more accurately than hiring a professional.

Tools to get started

Before laying tiles on the floor, make sure you have everything you need:

1. building level,
2. pencil and tape measure,
3. roller and brush,
4. 10cm spatula and rubber spatula for rubbing joints,
5. comb,
6. mixer and glue bucket.

From the material we will need:

1. the tile itself,
2. tile adhesive,
3. dividing crosses,
4. primer,
5. grout (fugue)

Tools

Before you start laying tiles, you need to decide on the option for laying them on the floor, prepare the base and collect all the necessary tools. There is nothing critically complicated here. Drawing up a project for even a small house or deciding which pump to choose for a well on your site are more difficult tasks. At the same time, the most important thing in laying tiles is the absence of fuss and compliance with the rules. It will be impossible to correct the mistakes later; a complete re-flooring will be required.

Tools for laying floor tiles you will need:

• roulette;
• notched spatula for applying glue;
• rubber spatula for grouting joints;
• building level;
• solution container;
• tile cutter;
• wire cutters;
• drill with mixer attachment;
• rubber hammer.

You will also need special clothing, gloves and rags for the work. Knee pads or something similar for the legs won't hurt either; you'll have to stand on all fours and crawl a lot. The building materials needed are tiles, adhesive mortar, primer, water, crosses and grout.

What you will need

The set of tools and materials is quite large, but without all of the above, it will not be possible to install floor tiles. His sticker is far from adjusting plastic windows, where only a screwdriver and pliers are required. Before laying tiles on the floor, you should prepare more thoroughly.

Preparatory work

The surface for cladding should be as smooth as possible. For these purposes, the floor is equipped with a screed or a self-leveling floor is made. The first option requires more practice, but is suitable for leveling floors with significant slopes. Self-leveling flooring will be a little more expensive, but it does not require any special skill or skill.

A thorough inspection is carried out on the concrete base where the tiles are going to be laid. To avoid unstable areas, every centimeter of the floor is tapped. The level checks horizontalness. If the differences do not exceed 3 cm, the coating is quite suitable. If the conditions are not met, then pouring the screed cannot be avoided. The surface must not contain paint, parts of old coating or traces of petroleum products. Detected areas of crushed concrete or deep oiling are removed down to the “healthy surface”.

Wide cracks are cut to a width of up to 15 cm. All tubercles and protrusions must be removed, since the evenness of the tile laying depends on this. The surface is dust-free, and the areas to be filled with the repair compound are primed.

You can consider the option of a classic cement-sand mixture in proportions 1:3. This mixture will take quite a long time to dry. Cement-based tile adhesive can be used as a repair composition, but such a solution will only be reasonable for small defects; otherwise, a lot of it will be needed.

All cracks and potholes are sealed with mortar and leveled with the general surface. The point of leveling is not so much to accurately smooth the mortar, but to fill cracks and crevices as much as possible.

After the repair composition has hardened, the surface is primed in two layers, with each layer required to dry. This is done to ensure excellent adhesion and surface hardening.

But there are situations when, when repairing a small section of the screed, further delamination is observed, the so-called “avalanche-like process” occurs. In this case, remove all the old screed up to the floor slab and pour in a new one, about 300 mm thick. After hardening, the screed is primed.

How long does it take for tile adhesive to dry?

Many people will be interested in how long it takes for tile adhesive to dry on the floor. Drying time depends on many factors, layer thickness, humidity level, room temperature. This information is indicated on the packaging of the mixture.

Information on drying will only be relevant if you carefully follow the recommendations for diluting and applying glue.

The approximate glue consumption is calculated using special tables. But you need to take into account that the option will be very approximate due to the fact that each master works in his own way. This means that the thickness of the layer will be different, this circumstance implies different consumption.

Tile adhesive consumption table

How to make a self-leveling floor

A completely cleaned surface of debris and dirt is treated with a deep penetration primer.

Mix the mixture with water according to the parameters indicated on the package. It is better to mix the solution in a large container using a mixing attachment. The prepared solution is poured onto the floor and spread with a needle roller with a long handle to remove air bubbles. For the self-leveling floor to dry well and harden, it must take at least three days. After this, the surface is primed with a deep penetration primer.

Floor tile adhesive

We got to the question of how to glue tiles on the floor and, in fact, what to glue them with.

Since it is necessary to glue floor tiles using glue, you need to choose a high-quality composition. For work related to gluing tiles, it is best to be extremely careful in your choice, since the quality of the entire floor depends on the quality of its holding.

To glue the tiles use:

• Dry types of glue. They are characterized by the fact that the mixture contains cement; it hardens after mixing with water. Preparing such mixtures is not difficult: you just need to pour the required amount of water and mix the glue thoroughly.
• Liquid types of glue. They are produced on the basis of substances that harden upon contact with air. Working with this type is simple, just squeeze the glue onto the surface, level it, press the tile and hold it for a while.

Most often, dry mixtures are chosen, since liquid glue is expensive because it is sold in small quantities. For work where it is necessary to glue a large amount of material, the dry mixture is ideal. The choice of type of glue depends on the area to be treated.

If the flooring is installed in one room, then it makes sense to buy a liquid version of the mixture. Leftovers can be stored in the original packaging. If you use the dry form, you will have to throw away the finished mixture; it will not be stored for long.

Tile layout options

There are many tile placement technologies. Let's consider only the main layout options:

1. classic “seam to seam” layout;
2. diagonal;
3. in a run;
4. "deck";
5. "herringbone";
6. modular;
7. with contrasting inserts;
8. combined.

Where to start laying tiles

How to lay tiles on the floor correctly? Based on the selected type of layout, the floor is marked. Starting to lay the floor away from the wall is very risky. It is best to do this from the most visible area. Therefore, the reference lines are most often placed closer to the center of the room. The first support line is drawn along the room. In order to do this, you need to measure the distance between the walls and mark the connecting points. After which the points are connected with a coated cord. Then a second line is drawn perpendicular to the first, and also approximately in the middle of the room.

Don’t be too lazy to make a test laying of these two rows without using mortar. This way you can evaluate the future picture by eye and finally decide on the type of tile installation.

Gluing tiles to the floor

Since we will be gluing the tiles to the floor ourselves, we must prepare to do it quickly, otherwise the glue may dry out.

Before starting work, you need to prepare all the materials:

• The tiles need to be placed in another room.
• Glue, it needs to be prepared for work.
• Special crosses for forming seams. They are stuck into the mortar along the adjacent sides of the tile.
• Necessary tools: spatulas, buckets, rags, tile cutter, level, pencil, tape measure.

Before gluing the tiles to the floor, you need to vacuum the base. Any debris, as well as dust, will weaken the quality of the fastening between the base and the tile.

An important part of the work is marking. It is better to perform this part before cleaning the room from dust; during the marking process, tile dust may appear. The markings are made in such a way that near the entrance, if possible, the tiles are located in whole pieces. This is required for a beautiful aesthetic appearance.

Work begins:

• From the center of the room. There may be a part coming to the entrance that requires a lot of trimming. This method is used if the floor has a very specific pattern.
• Using plain tiles involves starting work from the entrance. In this case, all the trim will fall on the opposite wall.

When the starting point for installation has been determined, the glue is diluted. This work is carried out in accordance with the instructions. The mass is applied to the base or tile. Most often, the adhesive composition is applied to the base, leveling the layer with a spatula. We glue the tile a little, pressing it to the surface and holding it for a while. Then, on the sides that will border with other tiles, you need to stick plastic crosses directly into the glue. They are needed to form seams.

Video instructions on how to glue tiles to the floor.

After laying all the material, you need to let the surface dry thoroughly. How long it takes for tile adhesive to dry on the floor is influenced by various factors, including the temperature in the room; it is better to check the approximate time calculation with the information on the packaging.

Keep in mind that at a temperature of 18-20 degrees the glue dries for 24 hours.

Differences from laying tiles in a toilet, bathroom, hallway, kitchen

If it is not necessary to apply a waterproofing layer in the hallway and kitchen, then in the bathroom and toilet you cannot do without it. The waterproofing layer will protect you from accidental flooding of your neighbors living below.

Waterproofing can be carried out in several ways:

• Pasting. Roofing felt or polyethylene film is glued to the base.
• Coating. The previously prepared floor surface is coated with a special liquid composition.
• Coloring. The floor is covered with special paint, and the walls of the room can also be treated.

Only after the waterproofing layer has completely dried do they proceed to further manipulations.

Diagonal tile laying with offset and inserts

You can use not only square elements of floor tiles, but also rectangular options laid diagonally with an offset. When the long side of the tile leans against half of another element. Such options perfectly hide tile defects and help eliminate poor floor and wall geometry. There is also a diagonal arrangement of elements with inserts. This technology is comparable to mosaic; additional materials can be either small or tile-sized.

Floor tiles with offsets and inserts will look beautiful and unusual in the interior.

The technology for laying tiles with diagonal inserts is similar to the technique for laying in a diamond pattern:

• The center of the room is located, appropriate markings are made;
• You need to lay out the future drawing on a dry floor, inserting crosses between the plates;
• Mark the correct direction by pulling the beacons;
• Treat the surface with a primer;
• Dilute the adhesive mass;
• Lay out entire elements according to the planned project;
• Trim and lay missing small parts around the perimeter of the room;
• Rub the seams.

After completing the work, it is advisable to let the ceramic surface dry for several days. In the same way you can lay out a wall in the bathroom, kitchen or toilet.

Tile work

If during work you need to cut a piece of tile, it is best to use an electric or manual tile cutter for these purposes. Initially, do not forget to mark the element to be cut.

We lay the tiles on the floor with our own hands. To work with the solution, you will need spatulas (regular, serrated, rubber for subsequent grouting).

Tile adhesive can be purchased at any store and diluted with a certain amount of water specified in the instructions. You need to stir the glue until you get a fairly uniform layer that will not spread over the tile. The finished composition is left to “ripen” for 5 minutes, finally mixed and application begins.

After which the tile is pressed tightly to the floor with your hands. Its positioning is performed relative to the reference lines. The work process continues in the same way with the obligatory fastening of crosses, which help maintain a certain gap between other plates. At the same moment, the necessary adjustments are made - removing or adding mortar, inserting new wedges, etc. Make sure that there is no excess glue left in the space between the plates. Excess glue is immediately removed. The solution stains that dry out on the tiles are washed off with water. The surface is wiped with a dry cloth. After the tiles have acquired good immobility, the crosses are removed. You should not wait for the solution to completely harden, since then it will be very difficult to remove the separators.

Types of floor tiles

Different materials require a specific approach to work, since they have different textures, and these indicators are important.

For the home choose:

1. Granite flooring material is a raw material of almost natural origin. In production, it can be processed using heating, due to which the finished product has a more pronounced texture and natural appearance. It can also be polished to achieve a mirror finish.
2. Ceramic tiles are made from natural materials. Thanks to different processing, it takes on different structures, due to which this tile is often used, since it is better to implement different floor designs with its help.
3. Porcelain tiles are produced in 2 firings, the first gives the material the necessary strength, and the second is the final one. Thanks to this, the tiles have excellent abrasion properties.
4. The cork version is soft and suitable for furnishing floors in living rooms due to its soft and warm surface. The disadvantage of cork tiles is the absorption of odors.
5. The vinyl version is characterized by softness and good strength. In essence, its qualities are the same as those of the granite type. In addition, tiles have a significant advantage in the installation method. It is not only placed on glue; you can use a self-adhesive version. There is a vinyl version with installation like laminate, using a tongue-and-groove system. That is, it turns out to be a floating floor.

Before gluing tiles to the floor, you need to choose what material to purchase it from. The first 3 described options are characterized by good strength, but have the disadvantage of coating hardness. If something breakable falls on the floor, it is unlikely that it will be possible to save the object. These coating options adapt to the ambient temperature; the floors will be cold. Cork and vinyl versions do not have such disadvantages.

If the tiles are placed on a heated floor system, then walking on such a surface will be very pleasant

The choice of tiles is limitless

Quick laying of tiles with the DLS system

The DLS tile laying system is a way to level the plane of laid tiles based on spacers and spacers for them. Using these tools allows you to largely automate the process and make it accessible even to beginners. With the help of the DLS system, a novice master can, for example, lay tiles in the bathroom several times faster and with better quality than using traditional crosses and wedges. This leveling system is also suitable for laying porcelain tiles.

The T-shaped lining is fixed under two adjacent tiles and acts as a spacer cross, only it additionally aligns the edges of the tile. The spacer is inserted into this element and tightens it, additionally aligning the tiles, creating pressure on them with its plane. Due to the large width of the system, it is possible to align 4 tiles at the same time at the intersection of the seam. To install the spacers, a special tool is used - clamping pliers. The spacers are removed after the glue has dried by simply knocking them down, but their bases remain under the tile.

The system compares favorably with older installation methods. When using crosses to lay tiles on the floor or wall, you cannot always level the plane: this is a feature not only of cheap types of ceramics, but even of expensive collections.

Features when working with the DLS system

This system is even better suited for installing expensive textured tiles - it allows you to align the tiles along the back, flat side.

Nobody canceled the level!

When using the system, one thing must be remembered - the initial leveling of the tile surface is also necessary. It is important to set the first row correctly. For a large plane, it is necessary to control its entire surface, so you can lay out two rows (on the long and short sides of the plane) using the traditional method: by level, using wedges and crosses. Otherwise, by “chasing” the tiles row after row, at the end of the plane you can accumulate an error and go beyond the level.

Whatever surface level you set with the first tiles, you will get the same level over the entire surface using the DLS system. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that it is a strictly vertical or horizontal plane (depending on where the tiles are laid: on the wall or on the floor).

Glue – more is better than less!

It is also necessary to get used to applying the glue - in this case it is applied only to the surface of the base: wall or floor. If you apply little, the DLS system may tear the tiles away from the adhesive layer during the leveling process. This is especially important when laying tiles on the floor, because you may not feel this moment, and then after the glue has dried, when you first test the surface by simply walking, the tile can be loosened or broken.

In this case, it is better to apply a little more glue and then remove the remaining residue. If you apply less, there is a risk that the tile will stick to only part of its surface or not stick at all. To do this, be sure to stock up on a rubber mallet and, before tightening the wedges, carefully tap the tiles with it.

Operating procedure

1. Apply glue to the surface with a notched trowel.
2. Install spacers under the tiles of the previous row.
3. Install the next row of new tiles on top of the spacers.
4. Level the tiles to within 0.5...1 mm using a rubber mallet.
5. Remove any remaining glue that has come out.
6. Tighten the element using a wedge and clamp.
7. Proceed with the installation of the next tiles, controlling the thickness of the adhesive applied.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

Advantages.

1. The speed of work, judging by the reviews and videos we watched, is really growing. A DIY tile kitchen backsplash will be ready in less than a day of work. And this is with a reserve - in reality, a day is also enough to choose the tiles and purchase all the materials =) It’s a joke, of course, but the complexity of the work, which consists in constantly monitoring the plane during installation, is really reduced to a minimum.
2. Applying glue to the floor is actually easier and faster than applying it to each individual tile, holding it in your hands.
3. The necessary tools for laying tiles using the new method are the same as before.

Flaws.

1. Using a DLS system increases the cost of laying tiles, since the system itself is quite expensive.
2. Only the wedges are reusable, the T-pad is a consumable item and must be purchased again.
3. When installing the first elements, you need to feel the degree of tightening of the assembled element so as not to overtighten it and break it - there is no limiter.

Laying tiles on the floor without crosses using the DLS system is a progressive installation method. With skill, a tiler can lay up to 50 m2 without trimming, a beginner will at least meet the quality standard with laying up to 20 m2. The DLS system is only suitable for flat surfaces, so for complex wall shapes (radius) traditional inspection and installation methods are still required.

Types of installation

You can lay tiles on the floor:

• in the traditional “direct” way;
• diagonal layout;
• herringbone (a la parquet);
• in a run - with an offset of a third or half of the tile;
• according to a modular scheme;
• in combined technology.

Straight

The simplest option is straight with perpendicular seam lines. This is the easiest and fastest way to lay tiles on the floor. There will also be less material consumption, because the tiles will only have to be cut along two walls. And if you choose it exactly to fit the area of ​​the room, then you can completely avoid cutting and leaving the residue in the trash.

Direct tile laying

Diagonally

The diagonal layout looks more original and visually expands the space. However, when laying tiles in this way, a large number of scraps are formed near the walls around the perimeter of the room. If you decide to lay tiles in this way, then it will need to be calculated as accurately as possible. If you do not correctly calculate the required amount of material, you can get into trouble when at the end of the work one or two tiles are missing.

Diagonal laying will visually expand a narrow space

Herringbone

The parquet option is only suitable for tiles (porcelain tiles) with a wood pattern. Plain tiles or those with a stone pattern should not be laid this way. This method also looks good when using two contrasting colors. But it is only suitable for spacious rooms.

Herringbone styling

"Take a run"

Depending on the offset, the offset option resembles brickwork or the deck of a ship. This method is quite easy to install and looks aesthetically pleasing. However, in small rooms it is not recommended to lay tiles this way. In toilets and bathrooms, such a floor will offend the eye with its unnaturalness. But in spacious kitchens it is quite acceptable.

Excellent brick imitation

Modular

Modular layout involves the use of tiles of different sizes. This option is ideal for small rooms where it looks especially impressive. At the same time, any pattern can be created from tiles and seams. If you want to create a unique interior, then you should definitely take a closer look at this tile layout scheme. Only the calculation of the required amount should be approached with maximum attention.

Modular tiling

Combined

If you have experience in gluing floor tiles, you can combine several of the methods described above. This option allows you to create a truly unique and original floor with your own hands. However, if the combination of colors and patterns is unsuccessful, instead of a beautiful cladding, it is quite possible to end up with a coating that looks very far from exquisite.

Original combined styling

Grout, fugue

Grouting is the last step in creating a tile floor. And you need to buy it to match the color of the material being glued. Make sure the glue has cured well. Clean the seams from any remaining tile adhesive. Using a rubber spatula, apply the grout mixture into the joints. Remove the excess.

Grouting tile joints

To ensure that the seams are uniform, plastic crosses are inserted between the tiles. After installation is completed, a day later they can be removed and grouting can begin. The grout mixture is applied to the tiled floor with a rubber spatula and lightly pressed into the seams. Excess of it from the tile is wiped off with a damp, but not wet, cloth. After hardening, after a couple of days, an additional sealant is applied over the grout.

Step-by-step instructions for grouting joints

Can tiles be laid on a wooden base?

The tree does not tolerate unstable temperatures, constantly changing its size. It is not difficult to imagine what will happen to the ceramic tiles: the ceramics will begin to crack and move away from the base. However, there are times when it is vital to install tiles on a wood floor. In such cases, you have to make exceptions and painstakingly prepare the foundation, shelling out a lot of money for materials. You can create a strong and level base that will be suitable for ceramics by choosing a wet or dry leveling method.

Is it possible to tile a heated floor?

Can. The best option for laying ceramic tiles is an electrically heated floor. The rules for laying ceramic material on a heated floor do not differ significantly from facing a conventional base. The main feature is the choice of tile adhesive. For underfloor heating, adhesive with increased plasticity and thermoregulating additives is used.