Installation of doors in aerated concrete. Installation of metal doors in an aerated concrete house. How to make an opening in a wall made of aerated concrete

How to install an entrance door in a house made of aerated concrete

Houses made of aerated concrete and foam concrete can be found in any cottage cooperatives. This is due to the fact that these materials are cheap, have excellent heat and sound insulation properties and can be decorated with various materials. Aerated concrete, decorated with decorative bricks, is no different from brick buildings from afar. After the construction of the frame and roof, it is necessary to begin interior work. Installing the entrance door to a house made of aerated concrete is a key step before finishing begins.

Installing an entrance door in aerated concrete - preparatory stage

Before installing a door in aerated concrete, several preparatory steps must be completed.

It is necessary to treat the surface of aerated concrete with waterproofing impregnations. A moisture-proof primer is ideal. Constant contact with water reduces the thermal insulation properties of the material. The primer will help protect the blocks and also make the surface more durable.
The doors should be slightly smaller in size than the opening. The total footage of the box should be 3-6 cm less.

Experts recommend one of three ways to install the front door:

installation using special anchors for aerated concrete,
on a structure or wooden frame,
on metal corners.

Preparatory work package

Installation of a metal door in aerated concrete can begin only after preparation. The gas block is a cellular material that crumbles under heavy loads. If intruders want to break into the premises, they will not open the metal door. It will be easier for them to tear it out with fastenings. Preparatory work depends on whether the house is new or old.

If the building is new, you need to mark the passage and cut it out using a large grinder. Next, the surfaces are leveled to the building level. If the house is old, you need to dismantle the frame and canvas. The door is removed from its hinges, and the frame is carefully detached from the walls and removed.

Important! Do not use rough tools during dismantling. Due to vibration, the integrity of the cellular material may be compromised.

After dismantling the old door, it is necessary to level the working surfaces. When there are no complaints about the level, the gas blocks need to be coated with a primer, which will protect them from the destructive effects of moisture. If there is no primer, you can use waterproofing tape, which comes with a self-adhesive part. Primer has a major advantage over tape. It strengthens the structure of the material 50 mm deep.

At the preparation stage, it is important to choose a door frame with a leaf in order to know what size the passage should be. If the opening needs to be smaller, it can be filled with brick or cinder blocks. If you need to enlarge, use a hammer drill and a large grinder.

How to install doors

First you will need to prepare a tool that is not highly specialized or professional.

Preparation. The purchased door structure is unpacked and the completeness is carefully examined. It is imperative to check the functionality of the lock and that the hinges included in the kit can be adjusted.

Important! If the door is without a protective film, then you will have to protect it yourself with plastic film and cover the frame with masking tape.

Then they begin to prepare the place where the product will be attached. If there are any objects nearby, they must also be protected. in addition, decide on the side in which the doors will open and maintain the thickness of the gap.

Dismantling. When replacing entrance structures in a country or private house, this process is relevant. But if the house is new, then this stage is skipped. If the canvas is hung on hinges that cannot be disassembled, then it is removed by lifting it up. The door is easy to remove using this method. Metal doors are heavy, so you can dismantle them with a crowbar. If the hinges are collapsible, they are unscrewed using a screwdriver. When dismantling a wooden door, you need to unscrew the anchors and put the opening in order.

Removing the old door

Preparing the doorway. Before installing the front door, please note that metal structures cannot be trimmed. The door leaf has standard dimensions and, of course, cannot be cut so as not to disrupt the integrity and appearance. Therefore, before installing the door, you need to carefully measure the parameters of the opening. It is practical to use doors with a width of at least 86 cm, since it is more convenient to carry furniture or household appliances into the room through them. Sometimes you have to reduce the opening to install a metal frame. The disadvantage of this method is the occurrence of cold bridges. But there is a way out - to equip the slopes with insulation. To expand the opening, part of the wall is removed using a grinder.

Attention! To make the opening wider, do not use impact methods so as not to damage the supporting structure of the building.

The metal entrance door is heavy, because the optimal metal thickness is 2 or 3 mm. Fragile walls made of hollow blocks may not support such weight. In this case, a monolithic portal is cast and connected to the wall with reinforcement. Then a door frame is installed in it.

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It is not recommended to install a steel door into a wall less than 15 centimeters thick. If this is the case, consider making the wall thicker. The load on the floor also increases, so check its strength. If brick or timber was used for the old structure, they are dismantled, and the place is cleaned and filled with concrete.

Materials and tools

Construction work must begin after preparing tools and consumables. You will need:

Hammer, hacksaw for cutting foam and gas blocks.
Big Bulgarian.
Hammer drill, screwdriver.
Accessories for power tools.
Construction level, tape measure, marking devices.
Polyurethane foam, fasteners.

Installation of entrance doors into aerated concrete openings should begin after preparing everything necessary. Otherwise, you will have to interrupt the process and look for the missing tools.

Conclusion

We have outlined the basic principles of installation. It should also be noted that interior doors, as well as any metal-plastic or wooden structures, are installed using window installation technology. The use of a metal welded frame is allowed, but in this case it is not advisable.

Methods for installing doors in aerated concrete houses

You can install a door in an aerated concrete house in the same way as in buildings made of wood, metal, or panels. However, in this case, the fastening elements may become loose over time, and the door leaf will not be able to perform its main task - to protect the room from strangers.

To reliably protect yourself from intruders, cold, moisture and noise, you need to choose non-standard installation methods. There are three in total:

Fastening with anchors.
Installation on a welded frame.
Using wooden strapping.

Step-by-step installation of doors in an aerated concrete house with your own hands. Installation of doors in aerated concrete

Installing a Door to a House Made of Aerated Concrete - MasterOK

Installation of windows and doors in an aerated concrete house

When starting to build a house from aerated concrete, doubts arise about the strength of this material, because we are talking about the strength of the walls and the installation of windows and doors in them. Entrance doors to a frame house | metal installation. But for construction to be successful, it is necessary to adhere to certain schemes and rules, to do a clear sequence of all operations, then a good result will not be expected. It is also necessary to take into account the shortcomings of aerated concrete materials and take constructive measures to eliminate them.

Introduction

Aerated concrete is a type of cellular concrete that consists of cement, quartz sand, and in some cases gypsum, lime and other industrial waste are added to its composition. Aerated concrete is used in the construction of houses, specifically wall and partition blocks, lintels and floor slabs. Installing a door into a plasterboard partition. When installing plastic windows in aerated concrete, the characteristics and quality of cellular concrete are taken into account.

A set of parameters that have the highest operating life of the product under different operating conditions are ensured during the installation of the walls. To increase the load-bearing capacity, use blocks under the window and a supporting area for lintels. Window openings, in turn, can be with or without quarters. A quarter in the gaps of aerated concrete walls is an external protrusion 3-4 cm wide. The structure of the gaps is influenced by reinforced concrete lintels. Window quarters are glued using pieces of aerated concrete with a glue gun. Installing a door that moves into an opening with a sliding door is not very popular among people. For greater fixation, strengthen the corner and cover it with plaster.

Before installing a window in aerated concrete, preliminary work is carried out. Prepare a suitable set of tools for installation, these are: a hammer drill, a nail puller, a tape measure, and a cellophane film. Installing windows in aerated concrete begins with determining the working material; it can be aerated concrete or foam block. Although aerated concrete has a higher price, it justifies it one hundred percent. It has the highest strength, ease of use and maintenance, and is an environmentally friendly material. Aerated concrete has one significant drawback - it is not resistant to moisture and therefore mold and mildew often appear on it.

Foam block is the most reliable material and has high heat transfer. Because of this, the walls of the structure become thick. Among the shortcomings are the fragility of the material and insufficient environmental friendliness. The advantages of foam block include its resistance to moisture and relatively low price.

Before work, the room is cleared of furniture, the floor is covered with film, it is necessary to protect things from dust, the occurrence of which is inevitable during the installation process. Old windows are removed using a hammer drill or manually with a hammer. Assembly, installation and installation of a mosquito door are not complex technological operations, so in some cases it will be easier and more economical to do them yourself. You need to be careful when dismantling windows on higher floors and watch for falling elements, because people can pass under the house. It takes a lot of effort to remove the window sill. To remove it, use a swing; for this, the board is rocked from side to side until it comes out of the recess. It is necessary to keep in mind the weight of the structure and observe safety precautions, concentrate very much on reality and prevent the possibility of the slab falling.

The next step is to clean the working surface from dust, because it worsens the adhesion between the walls and the polyurethane foam. Installing a bathroom door: step-by-step instructions. To do this, the resulting garbage is carefully swept out and placed in a bag. Before installation work, the surface is primed for about four hours.

High-quality installation of plastic and wooden windows in aerated concrete is possible, provided that the contact areas are protected from heat loss. To add density to the window, you need to painstakingly caulk the gap.

Installing jumpers

When installing lintels in aerated concrete above a gap in a wall with windows, comply with safety precautions and process technology. The base of the lintel is fixed at a distance of 2 meters in length, and only if the window width is more than 100 cm, the base is increased to 2 and a half meters. The load-bearing capacity of buildings made of aerated blocks is increased using jumpers in the following cases:

load-bearing structures are installed taking into account bending strength, support shear, and deflection;
the wall, which does not bear the load, is reinforced appropriately taking into account the reinforced concrete lintel and aerated concrete.

The material used consists of aerated concrete, wood, iron and reinforced concrete profiles. Without a quarter, the window is fixed with nails. The gaps between the wooden boxes and the gap are insulated with rubber gaskets or vapor barrier tape. The slopes are finished with plastic or plaster.

Stages of covering a window with blocks:

Installation of a prefabricated monolithic lintel takes place on a pre-prepared base.
The window frame is glued with vertical seams with a special substance.
Using a level, check the evenness of the laid blocks and smooth them out as necessary.
The next step is thermal insulation with polystyrene material.
Smooth the concrete surface and remove temporary supports.

Installation of an iron door in aerated concrete, dimensions of the opening and door leaf

Aerated concrete is a porous material and does not hold up well to point mechanical impacts, in short, self-tapping screws.

From aerated concrete for yourself. Door installation! THREE of us put it on!

The ancient door to the new house stood up as if it were original)). Installation of interior doors in aerated concrete walls. Three of us put it on, can you imagine how languid it turned out to be?

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Installation of reinforced lintels

Reinforced aerated concrete lintels have many advantageous qualities. Installation of windows in a house made of aerated concrete or foam blocks. House made of aerated concrete. Ch8. Installation of the entrance door. They are durable, resistant to moisture, water and fungus, do not burn, are easy to install, easy to process, and most importantly - they are extremely durable. When installing a reinforced aerated concrete lintel, take into account the thickness of the walls in which the window will be located. The lintel is leveled across the entire width of the wall. To speed up installation and simplify work, take ready-made rectangular jumpers, the sizes of which are varied and suitable for any width of sections. Doors profile dors 1x for installation of interior doors. Aerated concrete lintels contain the following advantages:

have low heat transfer;
low weight of material;
Dimensions are suitable for any thickness of blocks.

To make a jumper of a suitable size, it is installed with an arrow pointing upward to a depth of more than 20 cm. Next, the jumpers are fastened together with mounting glue and, one after the other, tightly laid using a hammer. Using a wooden block with a wide blade, level the surface and wait for the masonry consistency to set.

Metal corners for jumpers and their installation

Jumpers from an iron angle can be made in different sizes using a saw for cutting aerated concrete. Due to the different sizes and ability of easy cutting of the block, the height of the windows is chosen. Metal jumpers do not have the ability to transfer heat, so they require auxiliary insulation with the help of qualified workers.

To install an aerated concrete block on lintels, iron corners are placed in the middle of the aerated concrete block at a distance of one third from the edge. The advantages of iron corners are their strength and ability to retain cellular blocks of a consistency of lime, sand and water. The design using iron corners looks neater from the outside due to the resulting smooth surface. The thickness and height of the iron lintels depend on the size of the supporting structure, and the following types are distinguished:

iron beams or bent profiles;
I-beams;
iron profile pipes;
hot rolled iron corners.

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Anchor mounting

It is considered the cheapest and easiest installation method. For fastening, special anchors are used that are suitable for cellular materials. Aerated concrete anchors are devices that are screwed into the block. At the moment of tightening, the fastener is divided into two parts and securely fixed in the wall. To increase reliability and strength, an adhesive mass is used. Before screwing in, holes are made in the wall, which are filled with glue, and the anchors are screwed into them. After hardening, the polymers securely hold the fasteners, preventing the door from loosening or falling out.

Installation of entrance doors in a country house made of foam blocks

If a country house is built from foam blocks, then the methods described above will be ineffective. This material is lightweight and quickly crumbles when interacting with metal fasteners. Over time, the anchors will become loose and the structure will begin to dangle in the opening. Installing a door in a country house here is only possible by creating a response frame identical to the parameters of the frame, which is attached to the same opening, but from the room side.

It is convenient to weld such a frame from a corner with a wall of 40x40 mm or 50x50 mm. The box and the mating part are placed on wooden wedges and leveled. After this, they are connected by welding along horizontal jumpers in at least four places. The perimeter is foamed and left to dry for a day. After 24 hours, the wedges are removed and foam is also applied to these areas.

has extensive experience in installing doors in country houses from various building materials. We know all the current installation rules and carry out the work with the required accuracy, and also adjust the hinges, ledge and locks for the ideal operation of the product.

Installation on wood frame

Additional wooden trim is installed in passages with increased load or when installing heavy door blocks. If there is a possibility that additional load will be applied to the canvas and the frame, wooden elements are installed. These can be individual bars, planks, slats or a box. The latter option allows you to evenly distribute the load across the opening.

Important! Before installing wood framing, you need to prepare the wood in advance. It must be impregnated with waterproofing and antifungal compounds.

The choice of wooden structure will depend on the weight of the door. If the interior panel is made of fiberboard, chipboard, or MDF, you can install two parallel bars and secure anchors in them. However, if we are talking about a heavy metal door, it is necessary to assemble a full-fledged wooden frame, which will ensure reliable fixation of the door system.

Installation of doors in a brick country house

If a country house is built of red or sand-lime brick, then installation is carried out in the classical way, by fastening the box with anchors in the opening to the wall. To do this, the old structure is carefully removed, after which the plaster is beaten and all protruding parts are removed that prevent the new box from falling into place. Installing an entrance door in a country house will be easy if you purchase a new frame 20-70 mm smaller in size than the opening. This will provide the necessary distance to adjust the evenness of the position, and such a gap will be easier to seal later.

When the new door has already been delivered and the old one has been dismantled, installation can begin in the following sequence:

Remove the fabric from the loops. Place the box in the opening on wooden wedges. These elements push everything to one side (the room side), and they help secure the frame so that you don't have to constantly hold it with your hands.
Use a bubble level to check the correct position. First, it is applied to the threshold and the blockage relative to the floor is corrected. To do this, one or more wedges are driven deeper or knocked out. Then the level is applied to the stand and the vertical is adjusted.
Having achieved evenness in all positions, drill with a hammer drill. The action begins on the side of the box where the hinges are located. Use a 30 cm long drill, and mark the required depth of the drill according to the dimensions of the anchor with masking tape.
Having installed the first and second anchors on one rack, the canvas is hung, closed, and a check is made for the absence of friction and the evenness of the gap. If everything is in order, then the remaining fasteners are installed.

Installing a door in a country house requires high-quality sealing of the gap between the frame and the wall, due to the location of the structure on the house-street line. From the outside, this gap is closed by the platband only visually, and air continues to freely leak and cool the room, so it is important to fill the gap well with expanding foam. If a thick wall prevents you from bringing the nozzle of the gun at the desired angle, then the substance is supplied from the outside, but with an increased dosage so that, under its own weight, it is pressed inward. If the gap is very small, use a plastic cap-nozzle that reduces the diameter of the spout.

Installation on a welded frame

It is considered a simple, reliable and durable way to strengthen the door block. It involves installing the box and canvas on a welded frame. It is made of iron corners and jumpers that connect the individual elements.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a metal frame:

First of all, the dimensions of the passage are taken. Corners are cut along them. One set should go to the outside, the second to the inside.
When the corners are prepared, you need to weld two frames. To do this, metal elements are placed in their places and welded at the ends to each other. If the work is done correctly, you should end up with two rectangular frames.
After making the frames, it is necessary to make metal jumpers that will hold the rectangular structures together. To do this you will need a thin steel sheet (3 mm).
The frames are fixed to the wall using aerated concrete anchors and welded using metal jumpers.
Additionally, the jumpers are secured to the cellular blocks using self-tapping screws.
Next comes the installation of the door block. For this, 15-centimeter self-tapping screws are used, which must be screwed into the walls through metal jumpers.
When the door is installed level and without distortion, you can fill the empty spaces between the aerated concrete and the frame with insulation or sealant.
After installation along the contour, the door frame must be foamed with foam.

Installing an entrance door in a foam block with anchoring

Stage 1

Prepare the opening (the size of the opening should be 20mm larger than the size of the box, maximum tolerance +25mm on each side.

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The surface of the framing planes must be flat and smooth, without sagging plaster and cracks.

Stage 2

Install the door from the outside of the opening.

Fix the frame in the opening level using wooden wedges of the required size, installing them between the wall and the frame on the inside of the door. If the floor of the opening is uneven, install wooden wedges in the door threshold.

Check the installation of the door frame using a level.

Stage 3

Using a hammer drill (electric drill), make holes in the wall for anchor bolts (diameter 10.5 mm, depth 130 mm) through the spaces provided on the door frame. The diameter of the anchor bolt is 10 mm.

After inserting the anchor bolts into the prepared holes, tighten the nuts until the anchors are completely secured in the wall. Seal the holes in the frame with plastic plugs.

Check the installation of the door frame using a level.

On the opposite side, through the spaces provided on the door frame, drill holes. Insert anchor bolts into the prepared holes and tighten the nuts until the anchors are completely secured in the wall. Seal the holes in the frame with plastic plugs.

In the upper part of the frame, through the places provided on the frame, drill holes. Insert anchor bolts into the prepared holes and tighten the nuts until the anchors are completely fixed in the wall.

Stage 4

Check the installation of the door frame using a level.

Pull out the wooden wedges and carefully fill the space between the wall and the door frame with foam.

Install the fittings onto the locking part. The door is installed and ready for use.

General recommendations for installing entrance doors

If a person plans to do the work independently, he should use the recommendations of specialists:

You cannot install the door on metal bars that have been hammered into blocks. During driving, the cellular structure is crushed and an initial backlash is formed. At first it will not be noticeable when the door is in use, however, over time it will become larger and disrupt the stability of the door.
The question often arises about how to install an entrance door in a house made of aerated concrete if the wall is insulated. To do this, you need to cut off the old thermal insulation material 20 cm from the box in all directions. After installation is completed, new insulation must be installed.
It is imperative to additionally insulate metal frames. They freeze quickly and allow cold to enter the room.
During installation of insulation, you must constantly check the building level and plumb line.

Installation of doors in foam concrete

Foam block is a lightweight cellular concrete, so it is soft and porous. Installation of a metal door in a house made of aerated concrete is done in several ways:

on anchors - this method is good for narrow openings;
for chemical anchors for aerated concrete;
on a specially welded metal frame;
using wooden strapping;
to an additionally laid brick wall.

The weight of a standard metal front door usually ranges from 45 to 90 kg, but can exceed 100 kg. Despite the fact that all these technologies have a right to exist, the most popular is installing a door using a response frame.

Adjusting the door leaf

Anyone can adjust the door system without additional skills. For example, you can get rid of squeaks by lubricating the moving elements. To do this, use a syringe filled with motor oil or WD-40.

If the sounds do not disappear, you need to carefully inspect the fastenings on the box. Sometimes the mounting bolts, screws or anchors are not “recessed” enough, and the canvas rubs against them when closing and opening. You need to tighten them tighter.

To get rid of minor distortion, you can use a hexagon. The new doors have the ability to adjust the position of the leaf vertically and horizontally. Typically, adjustment elements are located in hinges.

When installing doors in houses made of aerated concrete or foam blocks, special attention must be paid to the cellular structure of these materials. It does not allow the use of classical installation methods. You need to choose one of three installation options and carry out the work carefully.

How to fix a metal door in a foam block

In order to find out how to secure a metal entrance door in a foam block house, you can refer to the previous section. The installation methods for this material and for aerated concrete are the same, only one point is added: installation to an additionally laid brick wall. And the wooden frame, using the lathing method, is connected to the wall not with self-tapping screws, but with glue.

Installation in a metal frame is no different, except that if you take pipes for the contour, then recesses for them can be made in the blocks themselves. Then they are drilled and the frame is secured with anchors. The design is reliable and will last a long time. But if possible, then at the construction stage it is better to leave embedded parts in the walls - then the rigidity of the opening will become higher and the service life will increase several times.

Installation of metal doors in an aerated concrete house

The technology for installing a metal entrance door in an aerated concrete house is somewhat different from the traditional method of installing such structures.
These features are due to the specific qualities of the materials from which the door itself is made and the building is constructed. Having a cellular structure, aerated concrete is a lightweight and rather fragile building material, and the weight of a standard metal door sometimes reaches one hundredweight. Because of this contradiction, a door installed in the usual way, under the influence of even a slight force, can simply fall out of the doorway. That is why experts advise installing narrow (up to 1 m) metal doors in houses made of aerated concrete, and installing them using special fasteners or additional structures.

How to fix a metal door in aerated concrete

If the idea arises of installing a steel structure in a house made of aerated concrete, then you should immediately make a reservation that this is not a simple matter. The fact is that this material is quite fragile and light, and the metal sheet is massive and heavy, so there is a chance that it will simply fall off along with part of the wall, and then a lot of problems will arise. It is possible to carry out fastenings, but you need to think about the risks in advance.

If a firm decision is made about installation, then the installation recommendations will contain several important points. Moreover, fastening can be carried out in three ways: using a welded metal frame, on a wooden frame or special anchors. The last type is suitable only for lightweight narrow doors, the other two are suitable for everyone. Wooden framing is constructed from thick plywood, bars or overlay panels. The door is attached to it with large self-tapping screws.

Installation on a welded frame is the most common technology and, according to owner reviews, the most reliable. It can be used to fasten doors of any weight and configuration. How to do it:

corners of 35–50 mm in thickness are cut for both sides of the frame, along the edges of the opening they are welded into U-shaped arches, which are attached to the aerated concrete with anchors, and between each other - with jumpers;
the latter are welded to the frame in those places where the door will be installed; the connection can be further strengthened with self-tapping screws;
Using a plumb line, the box is installed in the frame and pre-fixed with wedges;
the structure is attached to aerated concrete with large 15-centimeter metal self-tapping screws; dowels can be used to be on the safe side;
all cracks and joints are covered with sealant and polyurethane foam.

Some owners, for reasons of economy, are not satisfied with the horizontal parts of the frame. This is a serious mistake because aerated concrete may not support the weight of the door. Correcting the mistake will take time and cost.

Approximately the same guide can answer the question: “How to fix a metal door in an expanded clay block?” True, with a few differences. In addition, this material is slightly stronger than gas blocks and can withstand heavy loads.

Methods for installing doors in aerated concrete houses

Installation of doors in buildings made of gas blocks can be done in one of the three most common ways, namely:

for special expansion or chemical anchors;
to the wooden frame of the doorway;
to a welded metal frame.

Each of the above methods has a number of its own advantages and disadvantages, which will be discussed further.

Method one. Fastening to anchors

This simple and low-cost method is suitable only for installing lightweight and narrow doors that do not experience heavy operating loads.
When using this method, the fastening dowels included with the doors are replaced with special anchors for cellular concrete, which, depending on the principle of operation, can be spacer or adhesive. When screwed into the wall, the working end of the expansion anchor splits in two and melts away, as a result of which the bolt is fixed in the loose structure of the gas block. For adhesive anchors, holes are pre-drilled in aerated concrete and filled with polymer resin. After curing, such a composite reliably holds the threaded part of the anchor in the wall.

With the help of such anchors, the turf box is secured in the wall opening in a standard manner. To reduce the absorbency of aerated concrete and compact its structure, before installation, the surface of the opening is treated with a deep-penetrating waterproofing primer.

Method two. Installation on a wooden frame.

If a massive steel entrance door, double doors or garage doors are installed in places where the frame is directly attached to the wall, aerated concrete will experience significant deformation and impact loads, as a result of which its fragile cellular structure will gradually collapse. To prevent crumbling of gas blocks under the heads of anchor bolts, door frames are mounted on wooden panels, frames or embedded beams, which ensure a more even distribution of the load along the entire perimeter of the doorway.

Such intermediate structures are made of wooden beams, thick plywood or durable planed boards. Before constructing the strapping, the wood is impregnated with a liquid antiseptic and dried well.

Lighter doors are mounted on beams recessed into the surface of aerated concrete or on solid or discontinuous (assembled from individual sections) overlay panels cut into the thickness of the wall, which are laid in the doorway on a layer of special glue, and then additionally secured with bolts for cellular concrete. In the case of installation on separate sections of boards, the empty spaces between the pieces of planks are filled with rigid polyurethane foam.

The metal door frame is attached to the finished wooden frame with powerful self-tapping screws. The heaviest and most bulky doors are mounted on a full frame frame, constructed from thick wooden beams attached to the walls of the opening with adhesive anchors, on an epoxy base.

Having completed the arrangement of the trim, garage hinges or a metal entrance door frame are attached to it.

Method three. Installation on a welded frame.

With this installation method, the doorway is reinforced with a double welded frame assembled from steel corners, tied together with metal strips for strength. Since this fastening method is the most common due to its availability and at the same time reliability, we will describe the technology of its implementation in more detail.

Installation of windows and doors in a house made of aerated concrete

Installation of windows and doors in a house with walls made of aerated concrete blocks

Installation of doors in a house with walls made of aerated concrete blocks (from cellular concrete blocks).

Why were more complex fastening units for door frames to aerated concrete walls invented? Aerated concrete is a fairly fragile material. When installing heavy steel doors, doors in large openings (openings over 91 cm, garage doors, etc.), doors in commercial premises with high foot traffic, aerated concrete in places where the door frame is directly attached may experience significant impact loads (shearing, pulling out) . To prevent gradual coloring of the porous structure of aerated concrete (cellular concrete) under a very small area of the anchor, it is recommended to install door frames in such a way as to distribute the loads from opening and closing doors over a much larger area. When installing doors in individual houses made of aerated concrete, it is possible to use intermediate securely fastened wooden frames or embedded bars. Wooden frames can be made from dry boards, laminated wood (furniture panels), timber or plywood. The tree must be pre-impregnated with non-washable antiseptics or, even better, impregnated with antiseptics under pressure. You can use heat-treated wood, as it is much less susceptible to rotting. When using regular dry wood, preference should be given to larch - as one of the most rot-resistant wood species available at a reasonable price.

In simpler cases of installing interior doors, either an embedded beam embedded in aerated concrete is used (Figure No. 1, option A). or overhead wooden panels along the thickness of the wall in the opening (Figure No. 1, option B). The wood is installed on a layer of aerated concrete adhesive or tile adhesive to prevent the formation of voids between the wall and the wooden panel. The tree is fixed to the wall using anchors for cellular concrete and, if necessary, to prevent hinge swinging - using self-tapping screws no less than 7.5 cm long (for shear screws 4.5-10 cm long in aerated concrete are able to withstand a load applied perpendicular to their axis from 30 to 150 kgf. The value of pull-out loads is 50% of the above values). Door frames are attached to the wooden frame of doorways with self-tapping screws.

Wooden panels can be solid, covering the entire height and width of the doorway (Fig. No. 2, option A). or made from pieces of wood installed at intervals of no more than 61 cm on centers (Fig. No. 2, option B). In the second installation option, after installation and fastening to the wooden planks of the door frame, the free spaces between the wall and the door frame are foamed with polyurethane foam with a small degree of expansion. This allows the door frame to be fixed more rigidly due to the oppositely directed holding forces of the screws and the expanding forces of the polyurethane foam.

For doors in large openings (more than 91 cm or garage doors), it is recommended to more firmly fasten the wooden frame frame of the opening using adhesive anchors (Fig. No. 1, option B). In this case, threaded studs or anchors are embedded into a drill hole with a depth of at least 15 cm into aerated concrete blocks of doorways with a pitch of no more than 61 cm using epoxy resin. The use of aerated concrete adhesive is not recommended, since due to its fluidity it is impossible to achieve uniform filling of a horizontal drill hole. You can use aerated concrete adhesive or mortar when embedding an anchor or stud while laying an aerated concrete wall. In this case, a groove is cut out in the aerated concrete block, open at the top, an anchor or pin is laid, and the cavity is filled with glue or mortar. The wooden frame of the opening is attached to the embedded stud on a layer of aerated concrete adhesive or tile adhesive using a washer and nut. If necessary, the opening trim is additionally secured with self-tapping screws. Either garage hinges or a door frame are attached to the frame.

Figure No. 1. Assemblies for fastening door frames to walls made of aerated concrete (cellular concrete)

Steel doors and doors to buildings made of aerated concrete for technical or commercial purposes can create significant loads on the aerated concrete at the fastening points. Therefore, for steel doors, fastening points to aerated concrete walls are offered that can withstand heavy loads.

Stop the hack! I would like to note that drilling out a wall made of aerated concrete and hammering a piece of reinforcement into the wall to which the door frame is attached, which is common for many shabashniks, is not quite the correct technology. In this case, the reinforcement is not rigidly fixed in the aerated concrete, since when it is clogged, the porous structure of the aerated concrete is compressed by the ribs of the reinforcement and, thus, the reinforcement will have a slight backlash. With each shock load from a door slam, the compression of the aerated concrete will increase until the door secured in this old-fashioned way acquires significant play at the fastening points, and the owner remembers the craftsmen with an unkind word and orders the installation of the door again.

In the simplest cases with steel doors of individual residential buildings, it is permissible to fasten the steel door frame to aerated concrete through a continuous or discontinuous wooden gasket with foaming of the free spaces with polyurethane foam (Fig. No. 1, option E and Fig. No. 2, options A and B, respectively). Also, a doorway to a wall made of aerated concrete can be reinforced with a double steel frame made of corners, tightened with a welded steel tie and secured to the wall with an anchor. The doorway can also be bypassed by a channel or a composite structure made of steel corners and a steel sheet, secured to the wall with anchors, filling the gap between the channel and the aerated concrete wall with a non-shrinking solution (Fig. No. 1, option D).

Figure No. 2. Schemes for attaching door frames to walls made of aerated concrete (cellular concrete).

More reliable fastening of steel doors can be ensured with the help of steel fastening elements installed during the construction of the walls of a house made of aerated concrete. Steel embedded elements for fastening steel door frames are pieces of reinforcement in the form of a straight rod, letters P- or T-Yu, welded to a steel plate (Figure No. 2, option G-1). The reinforcement is embedded in the grooves of the aerated concrete wall at the stage of laying aerated concrete blocks. The slots for the embedded elements are filled with mortar, aerated concrete adhesive or epoxy resin (Fig. No. 1, option G, H; Fig. No. 2, option D-1). The steel door frame is fastened by welding to steel support plates or by bolting.

Vertical reinforcement of door and window openings

In the case of a commercial or technical purpose of the building, with probable strong lateral loads on walls made of aerated concrete (wind, hurricane, snow, mudflow), with the likelihood of tilting of the base of the building, with the application of a concentrated compressive load on individual sections of the wall, with insufficient strength of aerated concrete blocks on compression, it is recommended to perform vertical reinforcement of aerated concrete walls and, in particular, vertical reinforcement of walls near door and window openings. For vertical reinforcement, special O-blocks with round holes with a diameter of 10-15 cm, produced by many foreign manufacturers of aerated concrete, are used. You can make such blocks yourself, using a diamond bit to drill large-diameter holes on an elongated rod. For vertical reinforcement, class A400-A500 reinforcement or welded reinforcement A400C - A500C is used. The minimum diameter of reinforcement for vertical reinforcement is 14 mm. The reinforcement is fixed in the foundation using an epoxy adhesive anchor or connected to an anchor pre-installed in the foundation with an overlap or a threaded connection. The upper part of the vertical reinforcement is embedded in the upper reinforced strapping belt. Steel embedded elements (supporting platforms) for fastening the steel door frame are laid at the stage of laying the walls. The ends of the reinforcement of the support platforms can be straight, U- or L-shaped - for anchoring with vertical reinforcement. After installing the support platforms, the O-shaped hole with reinforcement is filled with a fluid solution of a grade not lower than M200 (Fig. No. 2, option D). Vertical reinforcement should be installed no closer than a distance equal to half the thickness of the block and no further than 61 cm from the opening.

The window opening must be prepared when laying aerated concrete walls. It is necessary to install structural reinforcement under the window opening, to reinforce the partitions between the windows and the support areas of the window lintels.

Technology for installing an entrance door on a metal welded frame

For a standard metal entrance door, it will be enough to weld an installation frame from a 35 or 40 mm steel angle. For a massive reinforced steel door, it is better to take a 50x50 mm corner.

The corners are cut according to the size of the opening - one set of two long and one short segments is made for the outer side and a second set of the same for the inner.
The corners cut in this way are placed on the edges of the opening, and their adjacent ends are welded. As a result of this operation, two U-shaped arches are obtained, tightly adjacent to the edges of the doorway.
The arches are attached to aerated concrete with special anchors and, for strength, they are tied together with short jumpers cut from 3 mm sheet metal.
The lintels are welded to the corner frames in those places where the door frame will be attached to the opening.

Tip: Some homeowners, wanting to save time and money, try to install only the vertical parts of the frame. This should not be done! The benefit from such savings will be extremely insignificant, and the structure without upper beams will lose its rigidity.

For greater reliability of fastening, the welded jumpers are also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, screwing them in so that the caps do not coincide with the mounting holes in the door frame.
The door frame is inserted into the finished frame, controlling the verticality of the installation with a plumb line. Having adjusted the position of the box, it is fixed in the welded frame with wooden wedges.
Next, the box is secured in the doorway with powerful 15-centimeter metal screws, which are screwed into the aerated concrete through steel lintels. If the doors are quite heavy, for greater reliability, the screws are screwed not into aerated concrete, but into special dowels, for which holes are pre-drilled in the walls.
After installing the box, all seams in the structure are coated with sealant, and the cracks are filled with dense foam.
After hardening, excess foam is cut off with a construction knife, and the seams are once again treated with sealing mastic.

Advice: some hack craftsmen, wanting to quickly complete the work assigned to them, suggest that the owners fasten the box to reinforcement pins driven into the walls. You should not agree to such propositions! This method of installing doors, although not very desirable, is at least partly acceptable only for brick houses. A steel rod driven into soft aerated concrete crushes its fragile wall structure. As a result of a violation of the structure of the wall material, the reinforcement cannot be securely fixed in the thickness of the aerated block. The small backlash formed at the beginning of installation work will increase with each slam of the door, and this process will continue until the frame is completely out of the doorway.

Installation of metal doors in an aerated concrete house. How to make an opening in a wall made of aerated concrete

Installation of metal doors in an aerated concrete house

The technology for installing a metal entrance door in an aerated concrete house is somewhat different from the traditional method of installing such structures. These features are due to the specific qualities of the materials from which the door itself is made and the building is constructed. Having a cellular structure, aerated concrete is a lightweight and rather fragile building material, and the weight of a standard metal door sometimes reaches one hundredweight. Because of this contradiction, a door installed in the usual way, under the influence of even a slight force, can simply fall out of the doorway.

That is why experts advise installing narrow (up to 1 m) metal doors in houses made of aerated concrete, and installing them using special fasteners or additional structures.

Methods for installing doors in aerated concrete houses

Installation of doors in buildings made of gas blocks can be done in one of the three most common ways, namely:

for special expansion or chemical anchors;
to the wooden frame of the doorway;
to a welded metal frame.

Each of the above methods has a number of its own advantages and disadvantages, which will be discussed further.

Method one. Fastening to anchors

When screwed into the wall, the working end of the expansion anchor splits in two and melts away, as a result of which the bolt is fixed in the loose structure of the gas block. For adhesive anchors, holes are pre-drilled in aerated concrete and filled with polymer resin. After curing, such a composite reliably holds the threaded part of the anchor in the wall.

With the help of such anchors, the core box is secured in the wall opening in a standard way. To reduce the absorbency of aerated concrete and compact its structure, before installation, the surface of the opening is treated with a deep-penetrating waterproofing primer.

Method two. Installation on a wooden frame.

Such intermediate structures are made of wooden beams, thick plywood or durable planed boards. Before constructing the strapping, the wood is impregnated with a liquid antiseptic and dried well.

The metal door frame is attached to the finished wooden frame with powerful self-tapping screws. The heaviest and most bulky doors are mounted on a full frame frame, constructed from thick wooden beams attached to the walls of the opening with adhesive anchors, on an epoxy base.

Having completed the arrangement of the trim, garage hinges or a metal entrance door frame are attached to it.

Method three. Installation on a welded frame.

With this installation method, the doorway is reinforced with a double welded frame assembled from steel corners, tied together with metal strips for strength. Since this fastening method is the most common due to its availability and at the same time reliability, we will describe the technology of its implementation in more detail.

Technology for installing an entrance door on a metal welded frame

For a standard metal entrance door, it will be enough to weld an installation frame from a 35 or 40 mm steel angle. For a massive reinforced steel door, it is better to take a 50x50 mm corner.

The corners are cut according to the size of the opening - one set of two long and one short segments is made for the outer side and a second set of the same for the inner.
The corners cut in this way are placed on the edges of the opening, and their adjacent ends are welded. As a result of this operation, two U-shaped arches are obtained, tightly adjacent to the edges of the doorway.
The arches are attached to aerated concrete with special anchors and, for strength, they are tied together with short jumpers cut from 3 mm sheet metal.
The lintels are welded to the corner frames in those places where the door frame will be attached to the opening.

Metal frame for doorway

For greater reliability of fastening, the welded jumpers are also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, screwing them in so that the caps do not coincide with the mounting holes in the door frame.
The door frame is inserted into the finished frame, controlling the verticality of the installation with a plumb line. Having adjusted the position of the box, it is fixed in the welded frame with wooden wedges.
Next, the box is secured in the doorway with powerful 15-centimeter metal screws, which are screwed into the aerated concrete through steel lintels. If the doors are quite heavy, for greater reliability, the screws are screwed not into aerated concrete, but into special dowels, for which holes are pre-drilled in the walls.
After installing the box, all seams in the structure are coated with sealant, and the cracks are filled with dense foam.
After hardening, excess foam is cut off with a construction knife, and the seams are once again treated with sealing mastic.

All of the above methods for installing a metal entrance door are good in their own way, but the most reliable fixation of the door frame is ensured by special steel fasteners embedded in the walls even at the stage of constructing a house made of aerated concrete.

Quarters in window openings in

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Methods for installing entrance and interior doors in aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is a lightweight and fairly fragile material, so the technology for installing entrance and interior doors differs from classic installation options. The thing is that the weight of the metal sheet reaches 100 kilograms, so even under slight force the wall can crack and the structure will fall out of the opening.

It is best to install narrow doors in houses with walls made of gas silicate blocks, mounting them using special fasteners. This will make the structure durable.

Basic methods of installing steel doors in aerated concrete

The main problem that arises when trying to install an entrance door in aerated concrete is the low load-bearing capacity of the opening structures built from this material. It is obvious that standard installation technology is practically not applicable in such a situation. This is explained by the fact that aerated concrete blocks will simply crumble, as they will not be able to support such a massive structure. And the point here is not only its large weight, but also the difficulty of ensuring reliable and sufficiently strong fastening of the entrance structure to the walls.

Currently, the front door in a house made of aerated concrete can be installed in one of the following three ways:

using special chemical or expansion anchors;
using lining of the opening made of wooden blocks;
with a device for strengthening the opening structures with a metal frame.

Obviously, the first two options solve the problem of securing the entrance structure in the opening relatively effectively. However, they practically do not provide an increase in the load-bearing capacity of the wall. As a result, these methods can only be used when installing small lightweight steel doors. Of course, such products cannot provide a sufficient level of housing comfort, therefore, in practical private housing construction, the third installation option is most often used.

It is this that allows you to install a metal door in aerated concrete, ensuring the necessary strength and reliability of the resulting structure even when using insulated or large-sized entrance metal products. To do this, the opening is pre-reinforced with a special frame. It is made of a metal corner, which is installed on the inside and outside of the opening and connected to each other by metal strips.

To ensure sufficient strength of the resulting structure, a corner with a shelf width of 35-50 mm and strips with a similar parameter of 50 mm should be used. The metal thickness in both cases is usually from 1.5 to 3 mm. Connections of individual elements are made by welding. A similar design can be used practically for installing metal entrance doors in buildings made of any types of aerated concrete blocks and other similar building materials.

Entrance door

An old English proverb says: “My home is my castle.” To ensure that “the fortress does not fall to the mercy of the winner” in the absence of the owner, the door must be correctly installed in an aerated concrete wall.

Aerated concrete, popular due to its efficiency, has a significant drawback - low strength. It is possible to install a door in the opening of a wall made of blocks, but the fragility of the material will lead to the gradual loosening of the heavy metal door. It is not uncommon for poorly secured doors to fall out of the opening along with the door frame. There are several ways to securely secure a door :

Construction reinforcement with embedded parts (performed simultaneously with the laying of walls).
Reinforced with wood construction.
Reinforced with metal structure.

The width and height of doorways are determined at the stage of wall construction. Here you cannot do without cutting aerated concrete blocks to size using a special power tool or a regular aerated concrete saw.

Strengthening the opening of the mortgage

The first method of fastening is reliable.
It is provided for in the design documentation for the house. Simultaneously with the laying of the walls, the doorway in the aerated concrete wall is reinforced with an embedded part from a metal corner with a cross-section of at least 100x75x8 mm with a mustache made of corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm welded to it after 600 - 900 mm. The mustache is placed in the seam of the masonry.

Mortgages are installed on each side of the opening, their number depends on the height of the door. With a height of 2.1 m there are three mortgages.

In the upper section, the mustache is placed in the seams between the jumper elements.

The box is attached to the mortgages with anchors.

Sequence of work:

Make the required number of mortgages with welded mustaches;
Perform anti-corrosion protection of mortgages;
Install mortgages during the process of laying walls;
Align the box vertically and horizontally;
Attach the box to the mortgage anchors;
Fill the seams with foam;
On the facade side, protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation with a plaster solution.

Reinforcing the opening with wood construction

Unfortunately, not all creators of projects, especially standard ones, are concerned about protecting housing from unauthorized entry. If the walls are erected, but there is no metal framing the entrance door opening, the opening is reinforced using the second method - an overhead structure made of wood.

In this case, a U-shaped frame made of boards to the thickness of the wall is attached around the perimeter of the opening . External and internal piping is made of timber with a cross-section of at least 40x60 mm or boards 40x100 mm. The strappings are connected to each other with a board 20-40 mm thick using self-tapping screws. The wooden frame is secured to the slopes with anchors. To prevent the frame from protruding from the plane of the wall, a groove can be cut along the perimeter of the opening from the facade side to the size of the timber. The door frame is secured into the opening with anchors.

Sequence of work:

Prepare the wall with a strengthening primer or mesh;
Prepare two sets of timber according to the dimensions of the opening - two in height, one in width;
Fasten the U-shaped structures with anchors and install them in the opening from the outside and inside;
Frame the slope, fastening the structure with screws or anchors (dowel - screws);
Secure the frame to the slopes with dowels - screws;
Insert the box into the opening and secure it with anchors;
Seal the joints in the same way as the first method.

Reinforcing the opening with a metal frame

The third method structurally repeats the previous one, but is made of metal.
According to the size of the doorway, corners are cut with a profile of at least 100x75x8: two for the height of the opening, one for the width - two sets: front and interior.

The corners are joined by welding into a frame ; the frames frame the outer and inner edges of the wall.

Then the frames are connected to each other with overlays made of metal plates 50 mm wide, 3-4 mm thick, the length of the plate depends on the thickness of the wall, every 500-600 mm. There must be at least three plates along the height of the door. Instead of plates, the corners can be secured with reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm.

After completing the piping, the slopes are plastered. Then the door is installed. The box is secured with anchors to the metal corners of the frame.

Sequence of work:

Prepare the wall for work (strengthening the masonry with a primer or mesh);
Prepare metal for framing: two sets of corners - two along the height of the opening, one along the width, connecting plates (the number depends on the size of the opening, but at least three on the sides, two at the top);
Weld the corners into U-shaped frames, clean the seams;
All metal elements should be primed and painted;
Install the frames in the opening, fasten them with welding plates;
Fasten the frames in the slopes with anchors (dowels - screws) along the overlays;
Plaster the slopes;
Attach the box to the plates with anchors;
Seal the joints.

Cellular concrete blocks are a fragile material; impact tools cannot be used to secure structures . All anchors are screw-in (dowel - screws);
Before carrying out work, it is recommended to prime the slopes and edges of the doorway with reinforcing soil or glue a construction mesh to give additional strength;
If installation is carried out in aerated concrete using the second or third method in a wall with insulation, the additional thickness of the insulation should be taken into account;
To prevent the formation of “cold bridges” (freezing of metal, formation of ice and condensation), take measures to thermally protect the box. If the frame of the selected door does not have insulation, fill it with polyurethane foam or liners made of any insulation - penoplex, mineral or basalt wool.
Protect metal elements (corners, plates or fittings) in contact with the masonry from corrosion with a special primer or metal paint.

After the box is mounted, coat all seams . It is best to use sealant. The cracks also need to be removed; polyurethane foam is excellent for this. When it hardens, remove the excess by carefully cutting off the remaining foam with a knife, and apply mastic to the cut areas.

And this material tells about the armored belt and how to construct it.

You should not secure the box using ordinary pins made from reinforcement for this purpose. This method is still suitable for buildings made of brick, but not for aerated concrete blocks. The fact is that a steel rod, if driven into a block, will crush the structure. Already at the very beginning there will be a slight backlash, which will increase during operation. As a result, the box may fall out.

Any of the proposed installation methods, carried out in accordance with the recommendations, guarantees you protection from unwanted visits and safety of property. The work can be done independently, but requires skill and the ability to use construction tools. You will get the best results from the hands of a professional.

Entrance door installation

First, you need to insert the box into the existing doorway. For this we will need wedges, slightly larger in size than the gap between the door frame and the opening. We hammer the wedges into the upper part of the side posts and the lower one, fasten the box, maintaining the gaps (technological).

When leveling the front door, you need to start from the post where the door hinges are located. Using a plumb line, we check whether the door frame pillars are vertical (from the front and inside).

Next we need an electric drill. We drill holes in the wall through mounting lugs with a diameter of about one and a half centimeters and a depth of at least 12 cm. We hammer the pins into the drilled holes (can be secured with anchor bolts), then re-check the quality of the work with a level.

When all the work is done correctly, you can weld the clogged pins to the plates and then hang the door leaf, lubricating the hinges in advance and putting small balls in them (if the design provides for them). Remove any remaining grease immediately.

We install the door hardware and begin to align the side post on the lock side. By closing the door and moving the post, we achieve a uniform gap over the entire height between the post and the door of about 3 mm. Next, just like the first one, we fix the rack in the opening.

We weld the rods and tighten the bolts only after making sure once again that the door closes and opens easily and does not touch the frame.

We fill the gaps with polyurethane foam (between the wall and the frame). Be careful not to smear the box with foam; it is best to cover it with masking tape from the front side. For high foam adhesion, wet the doorway with water. One bottle of polyurethane foam is enough. Cylinders that are inserted into special guns are more convenient; foam is consumed more economically. After a day, the foam dries completely, all that remains is to plaster the areas around the doors.

The process of installing an entrance door is technologically complex and requires skills. If you are not sure, call the experts.

Interior door

Installing an interior door is not as difficult a task as it seems at first glance. True, it requires time, accuracy and skills in working with construction tools - a drill, a level, a chisel.

Choose

In housing, two door sizes are most often installed in height (2.1 and 2.4 m) and four in width : 0.7 m for the toilet, bathtub and shower; 0.8 m for kitchen and bedrooms; 0.9 or 1.3 m for the living room and family room.

If the gap is more than 50 mm, the opening must be adjusted using a mounting board.

Factories specializing in carpentry produce doors in kits, which include:

box
door leaf
accessories
set of fasteners

The additional elements necessary for framing the opening (platbands, glazing beads) and locking fittings (handles, locks) are purchased separately.

Preparing the tools

For a quality installation you need:

Drill
Clamp
Screws, for example 80×5
Hammer
Hacksaw
Chisel
Screwdrivers straight and Phillips
Spacers and wedges (wood or plastic)
Right angle square
Square 45 degrees
Level or plumb
Roulette
Pencil
Scotch tape or masking tape

If the purchased door has snap-on trim, then a drill and chisel will not be required.

We mount

Let's consider the sequence of installing a swing door in a partition made of gas silicate blocks.
When laying brick walls, mounting plugs (at least two on each side of the opening) are placed in the slopes of the openings - wooden blocks, to which the box is then attached.

It is impossible to install plugs in walls made of large-sized blocks, and the frames are secured to the slopes with mounting foam or dowel screws . Due to the fragility of gas silicate, impact tools cannot be used.

We begin installation by assembling the frame (if the door is equipped with a frame of universal size):

We measure the lintel (the upper element of the frame) according to the width of the door leaf plus 7 mm and the upper edge of the correct jambs, saw off with a hacksaw at an angle of 45°;
Alternately, we join the top and side elements of the box, clamp them with a clamp, drill holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, remove the jamb from the clamp and drill the hole to 4.5 mm;
We connect the jambs and the lintel with screws;
if necessary, add a threshold:
in the racks we cut out quarters from the side of the vestibule;
we assemble the box, mark and drill holes for screws;
remove the threshold, drill the hole to 4.5 mm;
We put the threshold in place and tighten it with self-tapping screws.

Before installing the frame, unpack the door leaf and check compliance with the door frame , check the opening direction, and install the fittings if necessary:

mark on the canvas and box the installation location of the hinges, handles and, if necessary, lock;
We mark the contours of the loops on the canvas and the box;
we select the recesses with a chisel, fasten the fittings;
we try on the hinges and mark the attachment points in place;
Drill holes for screws at the fastening points;
screw the hinges and install the handles.

Install the door frame in the opening:

Check the direction the door opens.
We insert the prepared spacers into the box. We insert the box into the opening, securing it with wedges located opposite the spacers.
We align the box with a plumb line or level, and tap the wedges. Repeat installation and positioning of the door at least twice.
The box framed with platbands is enough to be fixed into the partition with polyurethane foam. After hardening, cut off excess foam with a knife. We install extensions and platbands.

If the door is equipped with a threshold and is installed in a room where water leaks are possible (bathroom, shower, laundry), the threshold must be protected from moisture: the installation gap is filled with silicone sealant.

We hang the door leaf. Work is done!

Useful video

Very detailed instructions for installing an interior door:

The methods listed above are good for installing interior and entrance doors. Aerated concrete blocks will not crumble, and the door frame will be securely fixed in the opening.

Methods for installing an entrance door in aerated concrete

Most often, three methods of installing swing doors in aerated block walls are used:

on anchors;
on a wooden frame;
on a welded frame.

The choice of method depends on the type of door and its characteristics - purpose, weight, number of panels. Before you start building walls, you need to choose the right fastening option, since after finishing the walls, it will be difficult to correct mistakes made during installation.

Fastening to anchors

When installing lightweight wooden interior doors, it is allowed to use metal self-locking anchors, but it is more reliable to fasten with a chemical anchor.

A chemical anchor is a viscous adhesive composition that can quickly harden in air, forming a solid, durable substance with strong fixation on the surface of aerated concrete. The chemical anchor kit, packaged for retail sale, includes the composition itself, a threaded rod with a washer and a nut, a guide sleeve, and a mesh applicator. When installing the door, it is necessary to install it together with the frame in the opening and secure it in the design position, using a plumb line or level to control the verticality. You can secure the door using wooden wedges or use clamps.

Through holes pre-arranged for installation in the vertical elements of the frame, it is necessary to drill sockets in the slopes of the aerated concrete wall with a hammer drill. Having removed the door from the opening, it is necessary to use a rotating drill to give the recesses the shape of a funnel, expanding deep into the aerated concrete.

The chemical anchor composition is pressed into the recesses in the wall through an applicator. After this, the door must be reinstalled level or plumb and, using the plastic guide bushings from the anchor kit, insert the pins into the recesses to a depth sufficient to secure the door. When the anchor composition has hardened, the frame must be fixed on studs with nuts, which, if necessary, can be recessed into the frame mass. The gaps between the frame and the slopes must be sealed with foam.

Installation on wood frame

The wooden frame must be made before installing the door. To do this, it is necessary to cut niches 100 mm wide and 50 mm deep in the vertical slopes of the opening, using a grinder and a hammer drill. In the resulting niche you need to install 100x50 mm bars, previously antiseptic and dried. The bars can be fixed to the wall using any suitable adhesive composition with strong fixation. When laying gas blocks, it is allowed to arrange embedded parts from antiseptic bars.

When the bars are securely fixed in the aerated concrete wall, you can install the door frame in the opening and fasten it to the frame with self-tapping screws. The gaps between the wall and the frame are filled with polyurethane foam. This method is suitable for installing wooden or light metal doors. To install heavy double doors in aerated concrete walls, it is necessary to install a steel frame from corners.

Installation on a welded frame

A welded frame of steel angles is installed along the edges of the opening. It is necessary so that the forces generated when opening the door are evenly distributed over the entire height of the slope. The frame covers the wall in the opening on both sides and is securely fixed in the opening.

To make the frame, it is necessary to prepare four blanks from a corner 50x50x5 mm in length equal to the height of the opening, and two blanks from the same corner with a length equal to the width of the opening. In addition, it is necessary to cut eight blanks from a 40x4 mm steel strip, the length of which is equal to the thickness of the gas block.

Expert opinion Vitaly Kudryashov builder, aspiring author

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By welding it is necessary to fasten the corners in the form of two U-shaped frames. They must be installed in the opening and secured by welding strips together.

After the frame is securely fastened in the opening, the steel door frame is welded to it, having previously aligned it plumb or level. Depending on the purpose of the door, the frame may be located inside the opening or protrude beyond the plane of the wall. The second option is used for external wall insulation, so that subsequently the surface of the door and the wall cladding are in the same plane.

Installation of a metal door in a country house made of foam blocks

Another method is to install doors in buildings made of foam blocks. This material has an air structure inside and is lightweight, but the small cells are quite fragile when exposed to a solid steel anchor, which leads to loosening of classic fastening points. Installing an iron door in a country house made of foam concrete blocks requires the manufacture of a separate frame that fits around the opening.

To do this, I select a door that matches the dimensions of the opening and weld a frame from a corner similar to the dimensions of the box of the new product. They are placed on both sides of the entrance. The magazine box is leveled on wedges, and the homemade one is simply pressed tightly against the wall to eliminate the possibility of displacement. Both frames are connected by welding through metal strips 40-50 mm wide in the amount of 6-8 pieces for the entire product. This metal strapping provides a strong hold and does not require the additional use of anchors. All cracks are spray foamed and the area is subsequently covered with additional boards to create an aesthetic appearance.

has a wide variety of garden doors and also provides installation services. Experienced craftsmen know how to act in various conditions in order to securely secure the structure. The installation price starts from 2,200 rubles, which already includes dismantling the old door, attaching the platband and hinges.

Installation steps

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The simplest and highest quality installation method is installation on a metal frame, which includes the following steps:

The opening is strengthened using an equal-flange corner with a shelf size of 35-50 millimeters (the heavier the door, the wider the corner shelf) on both sides. The corners are connected to each other by welding and secured to the surface of the aerated concrete using anchors. The resulting arches are connected to each other with metal sheet plates 3-5 mm thick. which are also welded at the points of contact with the corner and attached to the aerated concrete block with anchors.
The door frame is mounted in the resulting arch, adjusted, and then secured with wooden stakes.
Using screws for metal 15-20 millimeters long (the length of the screws depends on the weight of the door), the door frame is secured through sheet plates to the aerated concrete wall, which helps to finally fix the frame in the wall.
The door leaf is installed in the door frame.
All seams must be treated with polyurethane foam and silicone, left to dry completely for 6-8 hours, then the door is adjusted, which helps extend the life of the structure.