How to lay a foundation for an old wooden house without special construction equipment
Old wooden houses were built on tarred logs.
There are no such buildings in the south of Russia, but in the areas north of the Voronezh region, where vast forests begin, wood is the main building material. Nowadays residential buildings are built on concrete foundations. Such a foundation collapses over time, and the log house begins to settle on one side. In this case, the rotten parts should be replaced with modern building materials. Before starting work, you should find out how to lay the foundation under an old wooden house without lifting the building with a crane.
Reasons for replacing the foundation
Beds lying in the ground deteriorate over time under the influence of dampness. Freezing in winter, in spring they thaw, swell and begin to crack and rot. After several decades, in such conditions, the logs become completely unusable. There are several reasons for the destruction of the old foundation under the house:
- too much load;
- errors in calculations for bed depth;
- the foundation under the building has rotted from age.
- unsuccessful reconstruction, which led to an increase in the weight of the structure;
- improper foundation laying;
- freezing of the soil, which caused cracking of logs.
Restoration of the foundation under a wooden house must be carried out immediately after defects have been discovered. Rotting of the beds leads to destruction of the base. After this, the structure begins to settle to one side. Failure to distribute the weight of a building causes it to collapse. Living in a dilapidated house is unsafe.
Types of foundations for replacement
The old foundation under a wooden house is destroyed under the influence of high humidity and climatic conditions. Homeowners believe that it is not possible to replace rotten beams without dismantling the roof and walls of the log house. Rolling a house over a log in order to replace parts lying at the base of the structure is not economically profitable and takes a long time. It is not necessary to carry out complete dismantling for this; there are reconstruction methods that allow repair work to be carried out without the involvement of construction crews and special equipment.
There are several ways to pour a foundation for a finished wooden house:
- Strip foundation - laid out with ready-made concrete blocks or poured under the walls of the building. Such a foundation evenly distributes the weight of the house and can be built on soil of any density.
- The columnar structure is suitable when the house has small dimensions and weight.
This base is easy to build. The base is installed on pillars driven vertically into the soil. The strength of the structure is ensured by special concrete beams.
- Pile foundations are used on uneven terrain and close proximity to groundwater.
The length and cross-section of the pile can be any.
- Monolithic slab - placed under the house when it is built on swampy soil.
The formwork is installed around the perimeter of the building, and the entire area under the house is poured. The result is a secure foundation. This type of foundation is more expensive than others.
Monolithic bases can be mounted from ready-made iron-concrete slabs. Several reinforced concrete products are pushed from different sides one by one. The joining place is filled with concrete solution.
After examining the old foundation, it became clear that it urgently needed to be reconstructed. It remains to figure out how to add a foundation to an old wooden house without raising the house. Actions begin with determining the appropriate type of base.
This is done before dismantling the rotten logs and lifting the wooden house onto the foundation, since in each case different technology is used.
Add a finished foundation
Question:
Construction. I poured the foundation for the house, and now I need to pour more concrete under this foundation, how to do this correctly?
Alexander, Blagoveshchensk.
Answer:
Hello, Alexander from Blagoveshchensk!
It was necessary to immediately pour it to the required calculated depth. And now this is resulting in a very big hassle - a problem.
If I understand correctly, then it is necessary to pour under the foundation, and not from the side along the entire perimeter to increase the thickness of the old foundation, while simultaneously increasing its depth. Although such options are also practiced. That is, along the entire perimeter, but not continuously, but in sections (about 1.5 meters long), they dig a trench of the required depth, for example to a depth exceeding the depth of soil freezing at your latitude. They make a sand bedding-cushion about 10 centimeters thick for the new foundation.
The width of the trench is usually from 30 to 40 centimeters. If it’s less, then you’ll have a hard time digging, and if it’s more, then a sea of material will go there.
Everything is done with great precautions, since the soil, especially if it is sandy, can crumble. At a depth of about one and a half meters, this is fraught with consequences. Sometimes you have to make formwork.
To ensure maximum adhesion between the new poured foundation and the old one, scraps of reinforcement are driven into the latter using a hammer drill and a sledgehammer. It is a good idea to attach a welded mesh to them. Then there will be a certain guarantee that the foundation, both old and new, will be one.
The new foundation is poured into the excavated sections of the trench. After it hardens, they dig a trench between these areas. And everyone repeats.
It’s difficult and time-consuming, but how could it be otherwise?
As a result, you get a solid and single base of the building, twice as thick as the original one, but also narrower to the required depth.
The second option - everything is done exactly the same as the first time, but the previous shallow foundation is dug to the required depth. And also in sections, about one and a half meters long. Why not more, I think, there is no need to explain, it might collapse.
Concrete is poured only under the old foundation. Portable panels made from edged boards or scraps of thick plywood are used as formwork. They are secured with stakes (reinforcement) driven into the ground and propped apart with bars, one side resting against the shield, the other against the wall of the trench.
The upper part of the shield should have a slot for throwing concrete through it with shovels. In this case, it is best to pour concrete with a mixer, but this, of course, is not always possible.
In the second case, no reinforcement is needed. But all this is provided that your original foundation was poured with a strip. If it is built simply from rubble stone, and even with a poor binder, then everything must be done doubly carefully.
Twice I witnessed how collapsed earth covered people who were performing similar operations. Therefore, formwork made of boards and its reliable fastening are first of all. Life is more valuable.
I don’t know how satisfied you are with my answer, maybe someone will advise something else. We did as he told us several times, everything worked out.
Good luck!
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Construction in Moscow and Moscow region
We work with a guarantee! Wide range of construction services.
Foundation, walls, ceilings, roofing, turnkey! +7 (905) 797-20-34
luxurycomfort.ru
Construction in Moscow and Moscow region
We work with a guarantee! Wide range of construction services.
Foundation, walls, ceilings, roofing, turnkey! +7 (905) 797-20-34
luxurycomfort.ru
Construction in Moscow and Moscow region
We work with a guarantee! Wide range of construction services.
Foundation, walls, ceilings, roofing, turnkey! +7 (905) 797-20-34
luxurycomfort.ru
Construction in Moscow and Moscow region
We work with a guarantee! Wide range of construction services.
Foundation, walls, ceilings, roofing, turnkey! +7 (905) 797-20-34
luxurycomfort.ru
Foundations
All questions to Semenych about construction
Semenych (author of materials)
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Stages of work execution
The simplest and most affordable way to raise an old log structure is to place car jacks under all four corners of the base, and then remove the rotten beams from under the frame.
It is difficult to carry out such types of work on your own; if the owner decides to raise the foundation of a wooden house with his own hands, you should invite helpers and study the step-by-step instructions.
Raising the house
Work begins on the side that is tilted. Using a lever, two corners of the house are lifted alternately and jacks are brought in. The mechanisms must stand on tightly compacted soil, a wide stone, or a wooden board. Thick metal plates with sides measuring 10x10 cm are laid between the log and the jack.
The house rises gradually, 2 cm at a time. Immediately, supports are installed into the resulting gap. To change the foundation under a wooden house, you will need to raise the frame by at least 6 cm.
To restore the foundation of a wooden house, you need to get 4 jacks for heavy vehicles. Mechanisms suitable for changing wheels on passenger cars may not withstand the weight of the log house.
To bring the jacks under the house, cuts are made on two opposite sides in the second crown, at a distance of 30-40 cm from the corners.
A strong beam made of metal or wood is inserted into the resulting holes, and jacks are installed under the ends. The building is being raised from all sides simultaneously. After this, the frame is fixed and the dismantling of the log frames that have become unusable begins.
Dismantling the old foundation
If the building stood on a foundation, it will have to be dismantled. The old base is removed, the sand cushion poured under it is raked out, along with the remnants of rotten wood chips.
The ditch is deepened by no less than 30-40 cm. The soil at the bottom of the trench is compacted. The soil surface is covered with a layer of new sand and fine gravel.
Replacing the foundation with:
After this, a new stage begins. The progress of further work depends on the chosen type of foundation.
Tape
Formwork made of boards and supports is installed along the bottom and sides of the trench.
Important. To give the base strength and wear resistance, reinforcement is carried out. To do this, you need to prepare in advance the knitting wire and reinforcement with a cross-sectional diameter of 18 mm.
When the preliminary work is completed, concreting begins. The concrete mixture is prepared in such quantity that it is enough to fill the foundation in one go. If the technology is not followed, seams will form.
Concrete is poured to the edges of the formwork, leveled using improvised means, a spatula, and left for a while. When the foundation begins to harden, it is covered with plastic film, oilcloth, or roofing felt.
The formwork is dismantled after the concrete has hardened. This usually takes several days. Complete drying of the foundation will occur in 30-50 days, depending on weather conditions. In summer, when the air temperature is above +30, the process occurs quickly; in a month the base will be completely ready.
When pouring a new foundation under an old wooden house, the two lower crowns of the frame are replaced along with the old beams. The lower logs deteriorate along with the base. Construction material is prepared in advance. Resinous types of wood are well suited:
The logs are dried before laying.
Columnar
A small house can be placed on a columnar foundation. This option allows you to save money. Such a foundation requires less concrete, reinforcement, and sand. The work proceeds in several stages:
- at a distance of 1.5 m, holes are dug, the bottom of which is thoroughly compacted;
- a sand cushion is created in each hole and formwork is installed;
- 4 reinforcement rods are inserted into the formwork and tied with wire;
- the pits are filled with concrete mixture.
When the concrete sets, the formwork is dismantled. The log house is installed on poles after complete drying.
Some craftsmen create a concrete frame for each pillar. This measure allows you to give them additional strength and prevents distortion. The building is lowered onto a columnar foundation gradually, simultaneously from all sides.
Pile
Raising the foundation of a wooden house can be done using screw piles. This is an inexpensive and relatively simple way to solve the problem.
Reinforced concrete piles are manufactured in a factory manner and can withstand heavy loads. The low cost of the building material makes it popular among consumers.
Useful tips
Partial restoration to restore the foundation is carried out when defects and damage are characterized as minor. In such a situation, they make several tunnels under the house from the outside of the wall, or a solid trench. The rot and old sand are removed, the ditches are reinforced and filled with concrete.
It will not be possible to lift it onto the foundation with your own hands without outside help. In order for the log house to be installed and secured without distortions, several people are needed.
When partially restoring a brick base, craftsmen advise carrying out the work as follows:
- remove the remains of destroyed masonry;
- the ditch is filled with liquid concrete up to half, making sure that the mixture penetrates into the soil and cracks, seams between bricks;
- after the first layer has begun to harden, the formwork is installed;
- reinforcement is installed on the bottom layer of concrete;
- A concrete mixture of normal consistency is mixed and the trench is filled to the brim.
After the concrete has completely matured, the frame is installed on the foundation. This restoration method allows you to increase the wear resistance and strength of the old base. The method does not require large expenses or the presence of special construction equipment.
The foundation under any wooden frame deteriorates over time. If it is not replaced in a timely manner, the building may collapse. The difficulty is that during the renovation and construction work the family must move to another home. It will not be possible to live in the house for the entire period from the beginning to the end of the restoration of the base and lower part of the base.
Pouring technology
Sand cushion device
This foundation element serves to uniformly distribute soil moisture along the planes of the sand or crushed stone cushion; the materials protect the foundation from deformation. To arrange the auxiliary layer, the dug trench is leveled and compacted. A sand-crushed stone cushion with a thickness of 100-150 mm is placed at its bottom, which acts as drainage. As the layers are laid, they are compacted with a vibrator or improvised means.
Installation of formwork
A strong wooden structure must withstand the pressure of the solution coming from the mixer.
The work stage consists of installing the selected means into a temporary structure into which the monolith will be poured. The formwork must withstand the pressure of the supplied concrete and allow it to harden, maintaining the given configuration. The auxiliary structure is made in the form of separate panels with an area of 3 m² and weighing up to 50 kg each. This will allow you to install the formwork yourself. They are installed along the perimeter of an open trench and secured to wooden beams with nails or self-tapping screws. It is necessary to cover the cracks with roofing felt or plastic film, preventing the poured solution from leaking. The base can be equipped with forced thermal insulation with polystyrene sheets, which are used as permanent formwork. At this stage, it is necessary to determine the places where the communications of the house infrastructure will pass; for this purpose, sections of plastic or asbestos pipes are installed in the places of future holes.
Reinforcement
To install the metal “skeleton” of the foundation, steel mesh or rods are used, which are welded in sections or tied with wire, the diameter of the elements is 0.8-0.1 cm. The reinforcement is installed on special stands at the bottom of the trench, these devices are non-metallic to prevent penetration corrosion from the soil to the frame. The surface of the rods should not be contaminated with oil products or fats, which will prevent connection with the monolithic material. The frame is assembled from several levels, the number of which depends on the height of the foundation. Metal rods should not be laid 5-10 cm to the edges of the base, so as not to be subject to the destructive effects of moisture in the future.
Pouring the solution
It is advisable to pour the concrete solution into the formwork at one time. The poured suspension is compacted using a special vibrator. When this is not possible, the process is performed with a sharpened rod or glander. Particular attention is paid to the joints of the reinforcement sections. Manual compaction is less effective than mechanical compaction. The process is completed with the appearance of cement laitance, which is removed by water, chemical or mechanical methods.
The mass poured to the top level is leveled and covered with film. Concrete must be constantly moistened, otherwise it will begin to crack. In hot weather, it is periodically moistened 2-3 times a day. The design readiness of the product will occur in 30 days, but even after that the foundation should not be overloaded.
A guide on how to add a foundation to an old house
Any foundation, even one laid in compliance with all the technology, will eventually require repair and restoration work. The appearance of any cracks on the walls of the house and the basement or crumbled areas on the foundation is a sure sign that it is time to start filling the foundation. Read an overview of the characteristics and features of the foundation blind area on this page.
Advantages and disadvantages
The advantage of the foundation grouting method is that it is possible to avoid irreversible destruction of the foundation and its complete replacement in time. Naturally, the procedure for replacing the foundation will be more expensive both in terms of financial and time resources. By pouring the foundation, the house will stand for many more decades.
The advantage of the foundation grouting method is that the procedure is not expensive and can be done independently without the use of special equipment. You can read the instructions on how to dismantle the foundation here.
Disadvantage of the foundation grouting method: this method of foundation restoration is only suitable for low-rise buildings.
Technology
The technology for pouring a foundation can be divided into several stages:
- preparatory work (inspection of the house and identifying the extent of damage, installation of signal beacons, calculation of materials, etc.);
- carrying out excavation work (digging a trench);
- foundation reinforcement;
- wooden formwork equipment;
- arrangement of a sand cushion under the foundation;
- pouring the concrete mixture into the assembled formwork.
The photo shows the process of restoring the strip base
How to top it up?
The reasons for foundation failure can be very different:
- the depth of the foundation was not sufficient for this type of soil (for example, with a low level of soil freezing, when it heaved, the foundation could be squeezed out);
- incorrect choice of foundation type for a given type of soil (movable type of soil or not);
- violation of foundation laying technology;
- the use of low-quality building materials when laying the foundation;
- incorrect calculation of the load exerted by the building on the foundation during its operation;
- Carrying out construction work close to the house can lead to soil movement, which will negatively affect the foundation;
- lack of a drainage system designed to drain ground and surface water;
- long service life, and the foundation is destroyed due to age;
- lack of waterproofing or its incorrect equipment;
- the impact of any natural disasters.
You can determine how urgently gravy is needed by installing warning beacons. To do this, you need to stick strips of tissue paper or a regular napkin onto the existing cracks; the faster the paper breaks, the faster you will need to start repair work. A guide on how to make foundation drainage is here: https://fundamentgid.ru/osobennosti-ustrojstva/rukovodstvo-kak-sdelat-drenazh-fundamenta.html.
Preparatory procedures for pouring the foundation:
Read the guide on how to repair a crack in your foundation.
- Excavation work is being carried out to dig a trench along the perimeter of the foundation, starting from the corners of the house, then at the intersection of the internal and external walls, then to the rest of the perimeter. Moreover, the trench is dug in sections, alternately on each side, no more than a meter wide, with a depth below the level of the old foundation. When digging a trench, it is necessary to maintain an inclination of the outer edge of 30 - 40 degrees to prevent soil from falling out.
- Inspection of the foundation for damage, with simultaneous cleaning and leveling.
- The foundation is reinforced with metal reinforcement with a cross-section of 8 - 12 mm. Along the side surface of the foundation, a horizontal strapping is made in several belts (the distance between the belts can be from 60 to 120 cm). Holes are drilled in the old foundation, in increments of one meter or one and a half (in places where the foundation is destroyed, it is better to make the distance smaller, 30 - 40 cm), where the reinforcement is inserted.
- A pipe is lowered into the dug trench so that one end of the pipe is under the foundation, and the other end rises above ground level.
- Next, the liquid concrete solution “cement laitance” is diluted and poured into the prepared pipe.
- Thus, the soil under the foundation is saturated. The procedure should be continued until the water no longer leaves within two or three hours, in which case we leave the trench for another day. If the concrete solution has been absorbed, then the procedure is repeated; if it remains at the same level, then we proceed to the next steps to strengthen the old foundation.
Foundation grouting procedures:
Video
See recommendations for reconstructing an old foundation:
In time, the work carried out to pour the foundation under the old house will undoubtedly prevent further destruction of the building and extend its service life.
General recommendations
In order to strengthen the old foundation, you first need to dig a trench next to it.
First, you need to inspect the structure; if the base is made with a large margin of safety, then there is no need to add foundation to the foundation when carrying out the superstructure.
Before you start digging a trench along a building, you need to take into account the fact that the load on the walls increases significantly, especially if the building has a basement or ground floor. In this case, before carrying out work, it is necessary to take care of strengthening the walls; for this, internal and external supports are used.
In order not to dig a trench along the entire length of the house, you can dig it in parts, the distance between them should be about a meter.
They begin to dig from the corners of the building, then at the junctions of the walls, and only then along the entire length of the house. If a new base is to be poured, then a gap of up to 30 cm is made between it and the old base.
After the excavation, holes are made, reinforcement is inserted into them and concrete is poured. After the foundation has been strengthened, it is necessary to make a blind area; its height should be about 60 mm - only in this case will it reliably protect the house from moisture. In addition to strengthening the foundation of the building, there may be a need to strengthen its walls. This cannot be done around the perimeter. First, one wall is strengthened along its entire length, and then the wall opposite is strengthened.
How to add a foundation to an old wooden house
Wooden houses in individual construction are traditional housing in many regions of the country. If modern structures are built taking into account well-calculated technologies and with a strong foundation, then for the foundation of old buildings improvised material was used, or, in general, the building was erected without it. The consequence of this is the destruction and subsidence of a poor-quality foundation, and there is a need for its restoration. How to add a foundation to an old wooden house, how to do it correctly to prevent destruction?
Foundation Features
As a rule, when constructing a private building, the following types of foundation are used:
- strip reinforced concrete structure is one of the strongest and most durable;
- stone or brick foundation, the least reliable, susceptible to destruction from moisture;
- For the construction of old log houses, vertical oak logs were previously used as supports for the building.
At the present stage, the old options are no longer used; the optimal choice is a strip reinforced concrete base. You should know that updating the foundation under a wooden house is easier than under a brick building. Therefore, in the latter case, it is better not to undertake repairs yourself, but to invite professionals. The reason is that wood is much lighter than brick. In addition, when a building is raised, cracks can appear at the seams in the most unexpected places, sometimes entire pieces fall off, and there is a risk of complete destruction of the structure. Specialists carry out work based on accurate calculations, have the necessary equipment, and are responsible for the safety of the building.
Causes of destruction
Even the strongest structure deteriorates over time, the foundation suffers especially; there are many reasons why it collapses. Often, this is the negative influence of the environment and weather conditions:
- groundwater impact;
- design errors;
- unprofessional geological research;
- time factor;
- ground displacement;
- lack of drainage;
- use of low-quality materials;
- insufficient foundation depth;
- poor waterproofing.
The exact culprit of the destruction and subsidence is established after examining the structure, it becomes clear how to lay the foundation under an old wooden house so that the support made becomes reliable and strong?
Foundation Analysis
Assessing the severity of damage under an old wooden structure is complicated by the fact that the problem is hidden underground, when everything looks completely fine from above. To find out how damaged the foundation is, in what places correction is needed, to accurately determine the method of solving the problem and the material, the foundation for the house needs to be exposed:
- Along the border of the building in close proximity to the wall, you will need to dig a ditch 70 cm wide;
- when the house is located on pillars or “chairs”, this place is excavated.
Only after this can you determine whether the foundation will need extensive repairs and high-quality gravy, or whether it will be enough to partially correct it. It is important to take precautions:
- you should dig carefully so as not to permanently damage the dilapidated foundation;
- it is impossible to carry out work from all sides at once;
- It is prohibited to support the structure with your hands.
It is better to start work from a problematic corner; if there is even the slightest hint of destruction, you should not hesitate, but leave the place.
Concrete grades
The foundation for the house is filled with a special solution. It must be prepared from high-quality cement grade M200 or M400 (1 measure). Other components:
- sand without clay impurities (3 measures);
- crushed stone or granotsev (5 measures);
- water - 680 liters per 1 cubic meter of mixture.
Make sure that the fillers in the solution do not bunch up, but are evenly distributed throughout the entire volume. Ignoring this will lead to disruption of the technological process, which means the foundation for the house will have serious defects. The batch is prepared in a mixing container or using concrete mixers. The best option is a team of workers and two concrete mixers - this way, the event will be completed quickly and efficiently.
Strengthening methods
There are several reconstruction options:
- additionally strengthen the finished base with a reinforced concrete frame;
- replace the collapsed structure;
- laying a new foundation for the house.
The complexity of the repair also depends on the type of work chosen. When the foundation is partially destroyed, then it does not require complete restoration; you can limit yourself to strengthening the weak areas. How to add foundation to an old house when the damage is not too significant.
Tape
If the house stands on a concrete strip foundation, there are no serious distortions, it is enough to strengthen it from the inside and outside:
- the ditch is deepened to the base of the foundation;
- problem areas are cleaned;
- holes are drilled in a stepwise sequence, metal rods are inserted into them so that protruding ends remain;
- tied into a frame using a metal mesh;
- then they make formwork, into which thin concrete mortar is poured.
During work, you should not rush; you need to take a break so that the soil and base have time to soak in the solution. This is an easy way to restore an old concrete foundation.
Made of brick
Often in old houses, brickwork was previously used as a foundation, and sometimes columnar supports were also made from them. If the structure made of this material is still in good condition, it is strengthened by making an additional belt. How to do it correctly:
- the inspection trench is deepened to the base of the foundation;
- damaged fragments are removed;
- anchors are driven into the brick for the entire thickness of the foundation, they are placed in a checkerboard pattern;
- the outside of the metal is connected by welding;
- formwork is installed in the trench;
- a cushion of gravel and sand is placed on the bottom;
- after this it is necessary to fill the foundation;
- put a net;
- add the remaining solution.
In this way, the foundation for a wooden house will be strengthened with a mesh and will become wider, which will increase its load-bearing capacity. If it is possible to raise the house, it is preferable not to carry out partial repairs, but to completely replace such a foundation. Damaged poles are allowed to be replaced even if no other repair work is carried out in underground areas. To do this, the pillar is excavated and temporary supports are placed under the building. Then the dilapidated base is removed, and in its place formwork is formed and filled with cement.
How to replace the base
If the house is already warped, a more serious reconstruction is needed; you will need to add a foundation to the old foundation along the entire perimeter of the building. More serious work will be required: the house will be raised, and then it will be put back on a new foundation structure. What to prepare for work? What tools will you need:
- shovel;
- Master OK;
- hammer;
- jacks, for lifting a weight of at least 5 tons, about 5 pcs.;
- reference apparatus.
- Everything possible is removed from the premises: furniture, equipment. This process is necessary to make the structure lighter; sometimes the floor, doors and windows are dismantled.
- At least 2 beams are placed under the bottom layer of timber; these are temporary supports. Ordinary beams or metal blanks are suitable; their thickness must correspond to the weight of the house, and the length is selected so that they protrude half a meter. To put them in you will have to destroy part of the foundation.
- Next, jacks are installed, and a solid foundation is placed under each of them so that it does not sink into the ground during operation. You can use an iron sheet or a piece of concrete; anything that can withstand the load will do, but in no case will the foundation support itself be suitable.
- Gradually, as the space increases as the building is raised, supports are placed under the base.
- If the walls are long, it is necessary to install additional channels so that the logs do not sag under their own weight.
- The structure is lifted evenly, trying not to create distortions; lift it a centimeter with one tool and move on to the next.
- Work continues until the house rises to the desired height. Usually 8 or 10 cm is enough.
- Then the defective base is dismantled.
After removing the old material, you need to properly add the foundation; there are some nuances here:
- dismantling and filling should begin from the corners;
- The base is replaced in parts of 2 meters through one element.
Filling is carried out according to the usual scheme:
- formwork is being built;
- a cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured;
- the solution is poured.
A small space should be left for laying waterproofing roofing felt. The house can be placed on the foundation after the concrete has completely dried.
Repairing the foundation of a wooden house with your own hands
In order to find out the extent of damage to the foundation and determine the necessary measures to restore it, you need to carefully study the current state of the foundation and identify characteristic defects that may affect the strength and integrity of the building or its individual elements.
If cracks appear on the foundation, then you need to think about the need to repair it.
The foundation is restored in fragments if it has sunk lower but has not begun to collapse. Complete repairs are resorted to when cracks and other damage are detected.
If the foundation of the house has sunk into the ground, it’s time to repair it.
With a strip foundation, they often do the following: the destroyed areas are dismantled and the structure is reinforced along the entire perimeter. In case of serious destruction of the foundation strip, it is decided to completely replace it.
If there are serious defects in the strip foundation of a house, it makes sense to think about its complete replacement.
Repair of a columnar foundation is almost always carried out completely: all the old supports of the building are replaced with new ones. To do this, the house is raised to the height of the pillars using jacks. New reliable supports are fixed on reinforced concrete “pillows”.
The columnar foundation is most often completely replaced with a new one
The wooden foundation is mainly made of pine or larch. A wooden structure always requires complete replacement, since over time it becomes completely covered with fungus and rots. Replacing old elements of such a base with new ones is carried out as follows:
- Using jacks, the house is raised above the old foundation to such a height that it is convenient to carry out work on dismantling old pillars and installing new ones. It is important not to overdo it, otherwise the lower crown of the house may crack or sag.
The corner of the house is jacked up so that the old pole can be removed
- Rotten pillars are removed, and rickety, but still high-quality supports are placed straight.
- In places where new pillars need to be installed, soil is removed. The bottom of each base under the support is covered with a 10 cm layer of sand. A concrete “heel” is created on the compacted sand “cushion”. It consists of a layer of cement mortar 20 cm thick. A new wooden pole wrapped in waterproofing sheet is placed in the concrete before it hardens.
Before installation, wooden poles must be covered with a layer of waterproofing.
- The installed pillars are covered with earth and coarse crushed stone. After leveling, roofing material is placed on the supports and wooden beams are placed. The building is lowered onto them.
The damaged foundation of a dilapidated wooden house can be put in order. To do this, you need to obtain the necessary knowledge and choose a repair or replacement technology. You can do the reconstruction of the foundation of a house yourself, if you have the desire and at least a little experience in construction work.
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New foundation
There are situations when a structure is erected without using any support. How to make a foundation for an old house without a foundation:
- first, the walls of the old house are dug around the edges, making a trench as deep as a spade bayonet;
- further, reinforced concrete piles or wooden supports are placed under the base;
- a layer of sand 15 cm high is poured onto the bottom of the pit;
- formwork is installed under the building;
- reinforcement is made using reinforcement or wire;
- then the outer sides of the formwork are installed;
- it is important to place its upper edge higher to make it easier to add the solution, and the niche is subsequently sealed.
- Crushed stone is poured into the installed formwork to prevent voids from arising.
- cement mortar is poured.
After completing the work, it is good to build another high-quality blind area. What new foundation to install under an old house is decided by each owner of the building, depending on the degree of destruction and financial capabilities. In any case, you should not delay the repairs, otherwise the home may become seriously distorted and more serious reconstruction will be required.
We strengthen the foundation of the house on columns
Scheme of strengthening the foundation on columns.
If the house is located on columns, then first dig a trench between them to the depth of a spade bayonet and the width of the column. After this, sand is poured into the finished trench in a layer of 10 cm. On the side of the building, formwork is made of plywood, chipboard or boards, and racks and stops are used to secure it. The formwork must be reliable so that it does not fall apart during concrete pouring.
Reinforcement is placed in the trench, which must be secured to the supports. In order to strengthen the base, you can use not only corrugated reinforcement, but also metal mesh, pieces of wire and other metal scraps.
Formwork is also installed on the outside, in which spaces are left through which concrete will be poured. After it is removed, the remaining voids are filled with concrete. To make the formwork more airtight, you can use a stapler to secure plastic film on top. To make concrete, you must use fine crushed stone, and the consistency of the concrete must be creamy.
Instead of pouring concrete, you can make brickwork, it can be made from old bricks. In this case, it is not necessary to build formwork, and to eliminate the unsightly appearance, the masonry is plastered. The use of brickwork does not exclude the use of a sand cushion and reinforcement; this is necessary so that it does not sag over time.
Replacing the foundation under an old wooden house
You can often find old wooden houses that do not stand on a foundation, since previously the house was installed on wooden supports, which were tarred logs. And of course, over time they collapse, and the foundation has to be changed, and the foundation will need to be laid under an old wooden house. How to do it?
An example of pouring a new foundation for an old wooden house
Base grouting: work technology
Repairing the supports under an old house will require the use of jacks to lift the wooden frame while the repair work is being carried out.
To begin with, you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the house; work is performed in the following order:
- They dig out the corners of the house.
- Excavation work is carried out at the intersections of walls, where pits should be dug large enough to inspect structures.
- After completing this work, continuous trenches are dug around the foundation along the perimeter of the building.
To prevent soil shedding, the walls of the trenches are made with a slope of 30 to 40 degrees. The width of the trench should not be more than 1 meter. The depth of the trench being dug should be below the base of the old foundation.
We recommend watching a video of how to lift a house using safe technology.
The foundation structure is cleared of adhering soil, its walls are leveled and cleaned. If a wooden house is supported on brick pillars, it is necessary to dig holes around each pillar to assess the condition of each columnar support. For safety, you can place supporting jacks at each corner of the house.
The strip base must be reinforced with reinforcement with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm - the new frame (piping) is made in several strips with a distance of 60 cm. The reinforcement rods are inserted into drilled holes in the foundation structure (the installation step of the reinforcing rods is from 30 cm to 1 m).
What kind of foundation can be laid under the house?
It's time to repair the foundation in an old house, since over time the old foundation or foundations have become unusable. Many people are frightened by this situation, because they think that for this they will have to dismantle the entire structure, pour the foundation for the house, and then reassemble it. This will not only take a lot of time, but will also be very labor-intensive. We want to reassure you - there is no need to disassemble anything.
It is enough to decide what type of foundation you will put under an old wooden house, and there are several of them:
- The strip foundation is a monolithic structure, poured along the entire perimeter of the house. This foundation is very reliable and durable, it can withstand any specific weight of the house, and can be built on any soil.
An example of a strip foundation for an old house
Foundation design monolithic slab
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Requirements for the design of steel columns according to SP 16.13330.2011 (SNiP II-23-81) and SP 53-102-2004
The base plate is installed with adjusting bolts on the support strips, which must be concreted into the foundation flush with its surface, like embedded parts. The height position of the support plates is adjusted using nuts 4 along the level, which are screwed onto 3 cm anchor bolts. In a horizontal position, the plates are aligned using two levels or an optical plane meter.
After checking the correct installation of the base plates, they are secured with nuts and electric welded to the strips. Installation diagram a and permanent fastening b of a metal column on support 1 - foundation slab; 2 — support plate shoe; 3 - column; 4 — cap for preserving the thread during installation; 5 - anchor; 6 - nut; 7 - welding.
In the second installation method, the supporting planes of the shoes, as in the first case, are milled at the factory. During the concreting process, the foundation surface is leveled using a level. In the third case, the columns are aligned only vertically.
Reasons for the destruction of the old foundation
If a foundation has already been laid under the house, and it collapses, then there may be several reasons for this:
- the load on the foundation is very large;
- the old foundation has eroded over time.
erroneous calculations for depth;
The most common reason for the destruction of the foundation of an old wooden house is time. If there were wooden floors under the house, then they can simply rot, causing subsidence and distortion of the structure. Also, the foundation may collapse if the house has been reconstructed, and the specific weight of the structure has increased, and the foundation was not designed for such a load.
The reason may also be insufficient foundation depth. So, when the soil freezes, and then during spring thawing, the foundation experiences a strong load, which can cause cracks to appear on it.
There can be many reasons for the destruction of the foundation, and if upon examination of the foundation it turns out that it cannot be repaired, measures must be taken, such as pouring a foundation under an old wooden house.
Important! You should not waste time, thinking that the house can stand on a destroyed foundation for several more years. Measures must be taken immediately, as complete destruction of the entire old wooden house may occur.
Foundation replacement
So, an inspection of the old foundation showed that it was impossible to do without pouring a new foundation for the house. Where to begin? First, to determine what kind of foundation you plan to install in your home. This must be done before you begin work on raising the house and dismantling the old foundation, since the stages of the work will be different.
Preparation
The most common way to add foundation to an old house involves using car jacks. If you are not sure that you can handle this work yourself, then it is better to invite specialists. But when deciding to do everything yourself, you will need one assistant. So, you need to follow the following instructions:
- Place two jacks at the corners of the house on one side. The jack should be located about half a meter from the corner, and stand on a well-prepared surface - the soil is compacted, and a wooden shield is laid on it. To prevent the log of the lower crown from slipping off the jack, prepare iron plates - size 10x10 cm, thickness at least 5-7 mm.
Raising a wooden house with jacks
Tape base
If a foundation has already been laid under the old house, it must be completely dismantled. It is necessary to remove not only the old base, but also the sand cushion under it.
Making a trench for pouring a strip foundation
The trench is deepened, depending on the soil, but not less than 30 cm. The soil at the bottom of the trenches is thoroughly compacted and a new sand cushion is filled in. After this, the formwork is installed, which can be made from bars and old boards. Supports are installed on the outside of the formwork to prevent it from falling during concreting.
The next stage will be tying - it is done using reinforcement with a cross-section of 18 mm and tying wire.
Foundation reinforcement will help strengthen the foundation. Once all the preparatory work is completed, you can begin concreting. The foundation must be poured in one step so that there are no seams. As soon as the concrete is poured to the edge of the formwork, it is leveled with a spatula and given time to set. After the foundation has cooled, it must be covered with cellophane film or pieces of roofing felt and left to dry.
Scheme for pouring a strip foundation for an old house
After a few days, you can remove the formwork; in total, the foundation will dry within a month. Often, when pouring the foundation for an old wooden house, it is necessary to replace the two lower crowns, as they usually become unusable. You can prepare logs (preferably leafy wood) while the base is drying.
Columnar foundation
If the house is small, then you can pour a columnar foundation; this is a less expensive option. Let's look at how to do it right:
- the first thing to do is to dig holes at a distance of at least one and a half meters from each other;
- compact the bottom of each hole and fill it with a sand cushion;
- install formwork for pouring pillars;
Prepared formwork for a columnar foundation
Interesting: for greater stability and strength of the structure, some craftsmen use steel rods with a cross-section of 50 mm instead of reinforcement, installing it instead of reinforcement strapping. Once the concrete has set, the formwork is removed and the pillars are left to dry. Some owners make a concrete lining of the columnar foundation; this prevents the pillars from skewing in cases where the soil is unstable or with close groundwater.
As soon as the columnar foundation has reached its final strength, you can build on it.
Pile foundation
A new foundation for an old wooden house using screw piles can be an inexpensive and easy-to-implement solution. Piles can withstand heavy loads well and are inexpensive. To raise a house in this way you need to follow these steps:
- Taking into account the soil and mass of the building, piles of the required length and a certain type are selected.
- The house is raised, as in previous cases, certain areas on the crowns are allocated for further tightening of the piles.
- The piles are installed and screwed in using a special tool. You need to screw it in to a depth greater than the freezing point of the soil.
The process of installing a pile foundation for an old house
But a complete replacement of the foundation is not always required; sometimes only a part is destroyed or requires repair, for example, if the old foundation is made of brickwork. In this situation, it is possible to carry out work to repair the country house foundation. The video shows the process of pouring a pile foundation for an old wooden house.
Gravy for column bases. What should I add and to what thickness?
The required boom length is determined from the expression:. Diagram of parameters for selecting an assembly, self-propelled jib crane b - the minimum gap between the boom and the mounted element or previously installed structure is equal to 0.0 m; b - half the length or width of the mounted element; b - half the thickness of the arrow; b — distance from the crane rotation axis to the boom rotation axis, m; h — distance from the crane parking level to the boom rotation axis, m; L — boom hook reach at the required lifting height, m; L—required boom length, m; H — lifting height of the boom hook, m; h—height of the pulley in the tightened position, m; h is the distance from the crane parking level to the support of the prefabricated element on the upper installation level, m; h—headroom, m; h—height of the mounted element in the lifting position, m; h — height of the sling load-handling device, m.
The completion of preparatory work is recorded in the General Work Log. The recommended form is given in the RD and must be adopted according to the Act on the implementation of occupational safety measures, drawn up in accordance with Appendix I, SNiP Installation and fastening of columns 3.
Download PDF. The grout surface adjacent to the equipment must slope away from the equipment and must be protected with an oil-resistant coating. The strength class of a loaf or mortar when resting equipment directly on the mortar should be taken one step higher than the class of foundation concrete. Before grouting, the surface of the foundations should be cleaned of foreign objects, oils and dust. Immediately before gravy, the surface of the foundation is moistened, while preventing the accumulation of water in the recesses and pits.
Before the start of installation work, the following work must be completed and accepted by the customer: - installation of foundations for the installation of columns.
The acceptance certificate is accompanied by as-built geodetic diagrams showing the position of the supporting surfaces in plan and height; — backfilling of the sinuses of trenches and holes; — soil leveling within the zero cycle.
Installation of columns in the design position on foundations includes the following processes and operations: - installation of columns in “stiffening cells”, on supporting elements with alignment of the holes of the supporting elements of the columns with the foundation bolts; — securing the columns in the design position using anchor bolts and braces with turnbuckles; — establishing temporary connections between them; — securing the structure with braces; — introduction of columns into a given position in plan, height and horizontal verticality by making the necessary adjustment movements with control of the actual position and preliminary fixation before gravy; — filling the “column-foundation” gap; — securing columns by tightening foundation bolts with a given force.
The method of supporting the columns on the bottom of the glass should ensure that the bottom of the column is secured from horizontal movement for the period before the unit is grouted in one of the following ways: - resting on previously installed, calibrated and filled with cement mortar steel base plates with a planed upper surface (Fig. Beams, rails or angles are used as supporting parts embedded in the foundation. Schemes for supporting metal columns on foundations: a - on pre-calibrated slabs with a top planed surface; b - directly on the foundation, erected to the design level; c - on pre-installed supporting parts 1 - reinforced concrete foundation; 2 - gravy concrete; 3 - base plate; 4 - shoe; 5 - column; 6 — shoe support plate; 7 - rails.
Pouring the foundation, anchoring fasteners and load-bearing frames is one of the key stages in the installation of large-scale and massive industrial machines and equipment, as well as large building structures. The use of low-quality materials negatively affects the service life and can lead to accidents.
In the first method, installation is called non-calibration. Its basis is the high precision of manufacturing structures at the factory and installing them under construction conditions. With this method, see Preparation a and installation b of base plates on anchor bolts 1 - plate; 2 — strips; 3 - anchor bolt; 4 - nut; 5 - foundation.
Foundation restoration
Restoration work on the foundation is carried out if the damage is minor. In this situation, you only need to add foundation to the old house. Stages of work:
- a trench is dug around the house, from the outside;
- reinforcement is installed in the dilapidated foundation;
- damaged areas of masonry are removed;
- the trench is gradually filled with liquid concrete, this is necessary so that the material penetrates the soil and the pores of the old brick, up to half the required height;
- While the first layer is setting, formwork is installed;
- reinforcement is laid on the first layer of concrete;
- concrete of normal consistency is poured to the height of the formwork;
- After the concrete has dried, the building is lowered onto the foundation.
This method allows you to increase the strength and service life of the old base. In this case, the cost of material will be much less than in all previous methods. In conclusion, I would like to note that for the most part, all foundations of old wooden houses should be repaired, restored or completely replaced. It’s a troublesome task, but it’s quite possible to make repairs yourself.
TTK. Installation of metal columns of industrial buildings
Basic operations when installing columns: — slinging; - climb; — aiming at supports; — reconciliation; - consolidation. Columns are slung at the upper end, or at the level of support of the crane beams. In some cases, to lower the center of gravity, an additional load is attached to the column shoe. Columns are grabbed with slings or semi-automatic gripping devices.
After checking the reliability of the sling, the column is installed by a team of 4 workers. The leader gives a signal to raise the column.
At a height of cm above the top edge of the foundation, installers direct the column onto the anchor bolts, and the crane operator smoothly lowers it. In this case, two installers hold the column, and the other two ensure that the axial marks on the column shoe are aligned with the marks marked on the support plates, which ensures the design position of the column, and it is secured with anchor bolts.
In this case, additional displacement of the column for alignment along the axes and height is not required. Before installing the column, it is necessary to twist the nuts along the threads of the anchor bolts. In addition, the bolt threads are lubricated and protected from damage by caps made from gas pipes.
Columns K1 are fixed in the design position on the foundations using M 36 mounting bolts, M 36 nuts and flat washers. The bolt holes in the base plate should be 39mm in diameter.